I couldn't agree more. It's a really reliable workhorse.
Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb
Another vote for the Minolta Flashmeter III. I've had mine at least 20 years, and it's never failed me.
It doesn't seem to get such a wide press, but I have been using a Polaris for years - ambient, reflected, - existing light & EV mode and flash - manual and triggered, You can get a spot meter attachment for it, & can calibrate it up or down a couple of stops if need be.
I don't know if they're still available but, the Gossen Luna Pro digital F is a nice, reliable and compact meter that goes both ways (incident or reflected, flash or not).
I've also got one of the old analog Luna Pro F meters...nice. Has all the little Zone System markings and everything else right on the dial computer thingy...but it is a bit chunky by comparison.
I bought the Polaris SPD100 about 3 years ago as that was the cheapest digital meter I could find. See http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...tal_Meter.html
The user manual can be found here: http://22.214.171.124/flashes_meters/polaris_flash.pdf
It does incandecent, reflective and flash metering. It's compact, easy to use, accurate and it still runs on the first AA battery. Highly recommended.
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Another vote for the Polaris. It's my main meter that I compare everything else against. Does reflective, ambient, flash and multiple flash.
Sekonic for ease of use, accuracy and value.
[FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]
I use a Sekonic 718. I believe this meter was discontinued a couple of years ago but you can still find them new sometimes. It is a simple, straightforward incident meter with a rotating head making it easy to place. It will work corded or cordless. Mine has been utterly reliable for years.
Exposure Meter Advice
After all these years, it has finally happened - My Gossen Ultra Pro meter has finally gone erratic (see Note 1). It is the one piece of equipment that is not "back-upped", other than the possibility of using my Olympus OM-4 metering system ... which, to tell the truth, I think is a superior system, saving the inability to meter "flash".
I've searched, diligently, to find a repair shop, to work on the Ultra Pro. Apparently, the classic idea that, if a repair equals 1/3 or 30% of the cost of replacement, it is better to replace with new, is widely recognized ... most flat-rate estimates of repair exceed those numbers - easily. I have not received answers from all my inquiries yet - and any advice regarding a good, reliable repair shop, will be GREATLY appreciated!
In the meantime, back at the Ranch...
It is time to "back up"! I've given a LOT of thought to my modus operandi, and what bells and whistles were, and were not used/ useful. I work - a LOT - with studio flash, so "flash capability" is a must. I've rarely (can't think of once) employ multiple "pops". "Ratios" - I invariably will make a Polaroid as a final test of a lighting set-up. "Spot metering" - a definite consideration out of the studio - but in practice, again, rare.
I've researched many - one thing is sure - there IS such a thing as "overkill". I have NO idea why I would want the USB interface to my PC, as afforded by the Sekonic 758 series ... to do WHAT??? Something about modification of sensitivity curves to match the response of d*****l camera sensors?
I don't HAVE d******l sensors, nor do I need remote triggering - plugging the synch cable into the meter has worked FINE.
I am one nanosecond, and one micrometer away from springing for a Sekonic 308S. Simple, reportedly reliable and accurate.
Anyone have any comments/ information/ experiences with this puppy? I will be listening, intently, to ALL.
Note 1: "Erratic" = bad. OTOH - "Erotic" - well ...l
Ed Sukach, FFP.
It's right up the alley I'm looking at... except... I prefer a larger dome (don't say it!!)
Originally Posted by Ed Sukach
The reason I like a bigger dome is when metering outside I have learned to read allot about the ratio and the exposure I choose based on not only the meter reading, but on the way the light falls ont the dome, i.e., I can see that I am metering against the light, for example, and the reading is biased because of a little hot hit comming from the back left, which I may or may not disregard, and I might move the meter to add more or less and see how things change in the overall incedent reading.