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  1. #21

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    Well, I can tell you what it does on my ancient Pentax/Honeywell.

    The small cell handles normal, daylight scenes.

    The 9v kicks in when you press the low-light button. In fact mine runs fine in daylight with the 9v removed. The 9v is just there for low-light use.
    Official Photo.net Villain
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    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]DaVinci never wrote an artist's statement...[/FONT]

  2. #22
    Eric Rose's Avatar
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    Sucks! I guess I have to find one of the round cells then. There has to be a better alternative.
    www.ericrose.com
    yourbaddog.com

    "civility is not a sign of weakness" JFK

    "The Dude abides" - the Dude

  3. #23
    Sean's Avatar
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    I'm looking to buy a good spotmeter and can't getover some of the prices! I had no idea they were so pricey
    gossen ultra spot- around $800
    zone VI modified spot - $500+
    minolta spot - $400+

    ouch

  4. #24
    Aggie's Avatar
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    ..

  5. #25
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    I'm not sure what the conversion rate is to New Zealand $$$, but you can purchase a Minolta Spotmeter F like silverpixel's from KEH.com used for ~275$US. Ahh, now if I only had 275...

    I just can't seem to justify a $500 spotmeter when my entire LF set-up was under $350 including tripod... though I still need to get a better head.

  6. #26
    Sean's Avatar
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    the exchange rate is pretty bad, that 275 would almost double + shipping. Guess I'll just do that though, get a used one.

  7. #27

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    How about the no-name meter sold by Adorama? I think it's only about $200 new. With a used meter I always wonder if it'll need to be adjusted.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jorge
    > snip < When I belonged to the camera club in texas, I went out to photograph with a member who was a PhD in Chemistry. When we got back to the darkroom to develop the film, he was trying to control the temperature to 1/4 of a degree.....I laughed and he never went out with me again......
    That was NOT me! But I know some people like that too.

    My main meter is the Minolta Spotmeter F. I have found it to be as acurate as I need for most purposes. I still use the old Gossen Luna Pro, like yesterday when photographing a bird nest with my Contarex and color print film. I use the spot meter for practically all b&w "zone system" work, which dominates most of my present efforts.

    My spot meter is a little flucky in the flash meter mode. Sometimes several attempts are required before I am satisfied that I have proper readings. Maybe someone could help diagnose my technique?

    Truly, dr bob.

  9. #29
    RAP
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    The meter I use currently is an old Soligor Spot sensor II. I one I owned previously did a swan dive out my pocket, and bounced down the back steps, into an unrepairable mess.

    I happened upon another, identicle for $50.00 in a local shop. It seemed to work fine so I took a chance. I then sent it into Zone VI for modification, when Fred was still around. That was back in 1988 and I have been using it ever since for color and B&W.

    If I were to buy a new one, it would be the industry standard Pentax "D" word.
    Time & tides wait for no one, especially photographers.

  10. #30
    Murray@uptowngallery's Avatar
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    I have a working and a corroded analog 1/21 Honeywell Pentax Spotmeter.

    The Big Button cell was a 1.3 V 640 mercury cell. There is now a 640A or A640 alkaline replacement which is 1.5 V. Some people say that screws up the calibration.

    Someday I am going to do some 'spot checks', for lack of a better term, with a power supply at 1.3 and 1.5 & see what it really does.

    I have a lab photometer with an 8 degree sensor that matches CIE curve within 2% & I've already seen significant differences between it and one of the
    Pentax'es, with a 1.5 V alkaline battery...I do NOT have any fancy light sources, so I'm going to just change my distance from an illuminated 18% grey card (because it sounds like a good thing to measure off).

    I note the spectral response in the manual for the Pentax Spotmeter is kind of lumpy compared to the CIE curve, so that probably contributes to differences a little too.

    Some people have played around with reducing the output from a 1.5 V 640A to make it look closer to a 1.3 V battery. I don't know how that works out.

    I don't know when I'm going to get to do the meter comparisons. It's at the top of my list, but unfortunately so is everything else, so nothing gets done!

    Murray
    Murray

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