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  1. #11
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Recently I got an UpStrap, and it came with an inflatable flash diffuser attached by an elastomer fastening device, which is to say, a frosted plastic bag and a rubber band. I haven't tried it, but they say it works.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  2. #12

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    Take a plain 3x5 card bend it to a 45 degree angle, then use a rubber band to secure it to the 285.

    The light bounces off the card, works anywhere. I use this on a 283 all the time.

    Mike

  3. #13

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    Vivitar made a card holder for the 283/285. It was a bracket that would hold a Kodak grey card. White side forward of course. The L bracket will take a lot of weight off that accessory shoe. There were also flat brackets that would hold the flash upright, but not raise it.
    The center shot of the gent sitting in the chair looks as if the exposure is a little hot on his legs & under on his body. Holding exposure constant on a three dimensional subject like that is going to be difficult in a casual situation.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  4. #14
    eddym's Avatar
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    The 285 has, as I recall, four auto settings. Take an ambient light reading with your Sekonic, then choose an aperture and shutter speed that will give you a correct ambient exposure. Then set the flash to one of its auto settings that is 1-2 stops wider than your camera aperture. For example, if you are shooting at 1/250@f11, set you flash to an auto setting between f8 and f5.6. That way the flash is giving you 1-2 stops less than the ambient light. If there's no auto setting that matches, change the camera to an equivalent exposure -say, 1/500@f8 or 1/125@f16. You should not need diffusion if you have more than one stop less fill than ambient.
    And I agree strongly with the advice about the grip; letting the flash stick out of the side of your camera is asking for an accident.
    Eddy McDonald
    www.fotoartes.com
    Eschew defenestration!

  5. #15
    TenOx's Avatar
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    Mar 2007
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    Street shooting maybe should be harsh. Using a flash as primary illumination, it probably will be, though. Diffusion is great, but the softness and evenness of your light source is mostly dictated by the size of it, the larger the softer. That what diffusion really is. You can diffuse by putting light through or bouncing off of a larger surface, such as brolly or a wall. The sun would appear as a pinpoint light source, but it is diffused by the atmosphere and innumerable reflections. So a typical compromise is to use a card to increase the size of the source, and bend the head to ~45° for partial direct light. I used that a bunch for grip'n'grin shots for newspapers. It works, more or less, but probably wouldn't be the best for a wedding, unless they were looking for a hardcore Weegee type look.

    /./.

  6. #16

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    This set up will give diffused light on a TLR. It will get it up & out of the way but I don't think this will work for street(unless you're at a startrek convention) But, is ok in certain circumstances. The "L" bracket was $10 on ebay.

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...zzzz-flash.jpg

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