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  1. #21
    cmo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    Remember a soft-box significantly drops the potential light output.
    Right. No matter whether it is an umbrella, a softbox or something similar it eats 1.5 to 3 f-stops.

  2. #22

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    May be I should be thinking of an Espirit 1500 w/s instead.

  3. #23

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    For still life (table top) photos you can place the lights close for more illumination. Also, placing the light heads close will give you more diffussed lighting, contrary to what some people believe. I use MF and do well with a Novatron 600 w/s powerpack and 3 heads kit (200w/s each head). Sometimes I use a fourth head for portraits to reduce the f-stop (150w/s each). I work in less than 10 ft from subject.

    For LF more power is better for sure. Look for fan cooled heads if you want to use soft boxes.
    "Pictures are not incidental frills to a text; they are essences of our distinctive way of knowing." Stephen J. Gould

  4. #24

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    You can also use multiple pops to aid with exposure with any of the systems.
    I just fart around with MF & a 300WS monolight. Want more light? that's what the test button's for.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    You can also use multiple pops to aid with exposure with any of the systems.
    I just fart around with MF & a 300WS monolight. Want more light? that's what the test button's for.
    Multiple firing of flashes are fine for still life images, but try them when your working on a set with 3 models

    I have a strobe, not the US type I mean a stroboscpe not a flash unit, that's great for shots with dancers etc. It can be triggered by a camera or just used with an open shutter, and the frequency can be varied.

    Ian

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