Although I not positive about this, it for some reason sounds strange.
In the first place, 1/30th at 5.6 is not too ideal for hand held mingling around. I would never shoot this stuff (remember weddings you can't screw up) with less than 1/60th. I think I shot my stuff at 1/125. I'm not saying that you can't hand hold 1/30 or even 1/15th it's just that for consistancy and covering your butt, I don't think it's a good idea.
As for shooting 5/6, I don't like this depth of field either. For hurry up grab shots etc, that does not leave much of a margin for error in focusing.
It sounds to me like you need a more powerful flash. Added to this is the light loss from the softening device and it's seems to me to be a problem
With my Hasselblad and Metz I shot all the stuff at 125 at 8/12 or 11.
The only other thing is I would maybe try is fudge the ASA to try to get better exposure (say 100 down to 50).It seems that if you are underexposed then the sensor is not reading correctly. The problem now is that you are going to be worse off in the 5/6 at 1/30 department.
A lot of wedding shooters are now shooting ASA 400 instead of the 80 or 100 that we shot. The grain has improved and how many people order bigger that 8x10 anyway. That may help in the 1/30 at 5.6 department, giving you 2 extra stops to work with.
Usually, in a candid-doing, non-setup shooting... at weddings/events, I run around capturing the moment with my Nikon N90S with SB-28 with Photoflex balloony reflectory thingy on Stroboframe. I suspect my problem's the Photoflex soften-up-the-harsh-bloody-light thing. But all that stuff is TTL and the sensor is NOT obstructed... so, I don't understand the why.
I'm generally set at f/5.6 at 1/30th.
Ka
You're probably quite right about the Photoflex being the culprit. It may be it's absorbing so much of the light the flash simply runs out of power before it can get a proper exposure. I'd follow Blanskys advice and try faster film, first doing a bracket test in conditions similar to what you will actually be working in and see what the actual speed you should set the system to for optimal exposure. Be aware that the settings on some equipment is barely a good guide for good results, many flash units I've used have to be derated a stop or so to get good results because the manufactures tended to over rate the power of the flash to make a better sell. They would only work at the advertised power in a small white room that would bounce the light back from many directions. When working a large room the light goes away big time, in cave flash photography I've always had to open two stops from the rated settings to get good negs, even then it wouldn't do much in a large chamber even with multiple flashes.
I'll look up the Proflash, Ed. Are you saying it functions TTL on a 500CM? Perhaps I should just get an additional Hassy body to accomodate my TTL needs: 503somethingerother.
No, it will not function as TTL with the 500 or 501. THe 503Cx - Cxi has the necessary internal sensor and circuitry.
I have two 503Cx bodies.
Actually - I've given it more thought - the Proflash is properly OTF - Off The Film - flash. The internal sensor is aimed at the film itself, and reflected light from the film is read to turn the flash off when the proper amount is received.
The "Proflash 4504" has been discontinued - replaced by another "automatic" flash unit - "40 ..." something? It is more "automatic" and consequently less adjustable and flexible.
I'll take the "old" Proflash - any day.
In fact - if I had to do it over again - I go for a Metz CT-4 or larger - with the SCA adapter. That would effectively duplicate the Proflash configuration.
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Carpe erratum!!
Ed Sukach, FFP.
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Sorry, the synapses in the old grey matter do not seem to be firing very efficiently today... I've been printing RA-4 color all day... might serve as an excuse?
One other advantage to going with a large Metz flash... all that is needed to provide TTL or OTF flash with another camera's system, say a Nikon N-90, is the proper SCA adapter .., and I'm sure Metz makes them for all the Nikons, as well as the Hasselblads.
The Proflash is specifically dedicated to the Hasselblad... there is no option of using another adapter ... but I have used it as a manual and thyristor-controlled flash unit with my Olympus OM-4.
Come to think of it, there is another neat feature about the Metz - I have the AC adapter - if I run out of battery power I can just plug it into a household outlet.
Hi, Can anyone E mail me a photo jpeg of the instructions that came with the Osram BCS44 flash unit. I recently purchased a like new unit but the instructions were missing. I saw KA had purchased this flash and I hope he might have the instructions for it. Send replys to: tferko243700MI@comcast.net Thanks, Tom
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