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  1. #1

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    low powered flash?

    Hi,

    I'm looking for a low powered flash for my leicaflex sl. The situations I'd be using it in are ISO 800, f2, shutter about 1/30. Distance will be about 1 or 2m. So just a tiny bit for fill.

    I only have the smallest metz, which is still way too powerful (it only goes down to ISO 100, f 2.8 on auto).

    thanks,
    david

  2. #2

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    the lumiquest mini / or micro softbox for on camera flash might
    cut your light down enough enough. i used something like this
    and it worked OK but ate too much of my light, so who knows it might be what you are looking for ?

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ftBox_for.html

    a few other options:
    a sunpack might let you dail down to 1/8 power i think mine does ...

    if you have the $$$ and you think you will use it .. look for a lumedye 244 (with a battery).
    also look for what they refer to as the "hama" / handle unit.
    it allows you to dial the output down to about 2ws.
    if 2ws is still too muchlight, you can also get a globe for it, or "the tupperware lid" to diffuse you light more ...

    there was one of these lumidynes (here) in the classifieds a while back

    have fun!
    john

  3. #3

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    I keep a few old manual flashes around for this purpose (also for triggering slave flash). Typically use 1 or 2 AA batteries.

    Mat Acetate will help reduce light intensity and soften. Can fold over for varying levels. But need to test with film or flash meter.


    Quote Originally Posted by kadath View Post
    Hi,

    I'm looking for a low powered flash for my leicaflex sl. The situations I'd be using it in are ISO 800, f2, shutter about 1/30. Distance will be about 1 or 2m. So just a tiny bit for fill.

    I only have the smallest metz, which is still way too powerful (it only goes down to ISO 100, f 2.8 on auto).

    thanks,
    david

  4. #4

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    thanks, the softbox seems to only reduce the light by a stop, and I seem to be 4 stops over. Also, since the auto flash sensor is at the bottom of the unit, won't it bypass any light reduction on the flash itself (since it is a reflected reading)? Would this occur with mat acetate?

  5. #5
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    re-direct some of the flash output directly to the flash auto eye, and you will get the flash quenched as fast as the electronics can shut it down.

    I have used some flexible plastic 'lite pipe' found in some of my son's lego sets as such a pipe, and held it in place in the corner of the flash window with some white colured 'blu tac' sticky papers onto the wall stuff.

    Like the mat acetate, there are theatre lighting/cinema lighting gels made (Lee and Rosco are the big names here) with neutral density build in to a calibrated level, -1 stop, -2 stop, -3 stop that can be put in the lite pipe 'light circuit' to get more light out of the flash.
    my real name, imagine that.

  6. #6

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    You would want to set the ISO up for less light at close range. Shorter duration flash.
    Vivitar 283 with the Vari-power module allows you to cut exposure by 5 stops. The 285 has this feature built-in but I don't know how many stops it will adjust.
    Metz also has out put control on several flash units
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  7. #7

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    If I understand correctly, you want to use your "tiny" flash as fill for available light. In other words, primary light source is sunlight or room light, and your using the one flash for fill.

    If an automatic flash, anything over the light source will not have an effect, since the auto feature of the flash will compensate.

    I think what you can do is meter based on available light, choose an f/stop that corresponds to a shutter speed at or slower than your sync speed, and set your flash to an ASA/ISO 2 to 4 times higher than your film speed. You are, in a sense, fooling your flash to underexpose by 1 to 2 stops. You can still use the mat acetate, but it is for diffusion, not light reduction.



    Quote Originally Posted by kadath View Post
    thanks, the softbox seems to only reduce the light by a stop, and I seem to be 4 stops over. Also, since the auto flash sensor is at the bottom of the unit, won't it bypass any light reduction on the flash itself (since it is a reflected reading)? Would this occur with mat acetate?

  8. #8

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    I would not buy a new flash for this. Diffusion will eat up some light, if you want to use diffusion. So will ND. It would be ideal if you had a flash meter, so you know just how much of this stuff to add to get what you want. It would also be ideal if you could take the flash off the camera, but I don't know if the situation would allow that.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  9. #9
    jp498's Avatar
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    I have used the silvered anti-static bags that computing parts come in for ND, and kept it on the flash with scotch tape for diffusion. Works great. A well place finger over the flash lens works too but can cause a color cast with color photography.

  10. #10

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    I could use diffusion, but I still don't get how that will reduce the light on an automatic flash. If I reduced the light by two stops say, won't the flash compensate by shooting until it reads the full light value? I'm guessing this would be on manual, but then I think it will would be an 8 stop difference (guide number 20), and I have no idea how to diffuse that much light. I guess what Mike was saying was the most likely to work, by redirecting some of the light directly to the sensor. For the manual flashes, like the Vivitar, they're at a guide number of 120, so a 5 stop reduction (in manual mode) in power output would still not reduce the light enough.

    And the ISO on the vivitar only goes to 400 doesn't it? Are there any that go to 1600-3200?

    The purpose of all this is occasionally when I'm using colour film under mixed lighting, I like to get a touch of daylight balanced fill in the foreground. My current (poor man's) solution is just to shoot black and white.

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