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  1. #31

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    RE

    My camera and flash gun look something like this(photos from internet...)

    PS: A few bulbs with unknown bulb size(I didn't know how to differentiate the bulb size) come with the camera and they can fit into the flash unit(those bulbs have two small pins at the side each, and just need to push them into the reflector and they stay in there)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1.png   DSC056341.jpg  

  2. #32

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    The only bulbs with pins I know of are the ones I listed as the first reply to this question about your flash. Any of them should work.

  3. #33

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    Here is a good way to think about M3 and #5 flash bulbs, I know because I have done it.

    With an M3 at about 1/30 sec and F/8 you can illuminate some people IN your back yard at night.

    With a #5 at about 1/30 sec and F/8 you can illuminate some people AND your back yard at night.

    I have tried this in a Honeywell Tilt-a-Mite, the M3 and #5 may have about the same light output, but the #5 can spread it out a lot better than the M3.
    "Would you like it if someone that painted in oils told you that you were not making portraits because you were using a camera?"
    "Shouldn't it be more about the joy of producing and viewing the photo than what you paid for the camera?"

    Me

  4. #34

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    Real tests ALWAYS top what the manufacturer says their product does. Test bulbs with your camera and film combo to insure it works for you.

  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by bblhed View Post
    I have tried this in a Honeywell Tilt-a-Mite, the M3 and #5 may have about the same light output, but the #5 can spread it out a lot better than the M3.
    The M3 and #5 don't have nearly the same light output. They have similar guide numbers, but if you look at the fine print, you'll see that the M3 is for a 3" reflector, and the #5 is for a 5" reflector. Basically, this means that with the tilt-a-mite (5" reflector), the M3s are actually a stop dimmer than their GN says, as evidenced by your test.
    "Panic not my child, the Great Yellow Father has your hand"--Larry Dressler

  6. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by nickrapak View Post
    The M3 and #5 don't have nearly the same light output. They have similar guide numbers, but if you look at the fine print, you'll see that the M3 is for a 3" reflector, and the #5 is for a 5" reflector. Basically, this means that with the tilt-a-mite (5" reflector), the M3s are actually a stop dimmer than their GN says, as evidenced by your test.
    That wasn't a test, that was just me trying to get some well lit photos. I have to say that if #5 weren't so annoyingly bright I would use them a lot more for outdoor night photography.
    "Would you like it if someone that painted in oils told you that you were not making portraits because you were using a camera?"
    "Shouldn't it be more about the joy of producing and viewing the photo than what you paid for the camera?"

    Me

  7. #37

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    Just going back to bulb flash after 50 years

    I am just going back to bulb flash after 50 years or so. My father's US agent sent me a Brownie Starflash in the early fifties which got me started but it was quite difficult to find the required Sylvania bulbs in the north of Scotland. I moved on to occasionally borrowing my father's Bilora to use with my Retina and Reid III cameras. However bulb flash went out the window when I was given a Mecablitz 102 as a Christmas present in about 1959.

    I have decided that bulb flash looks nicer with B&W film, as opposed to the Leica 24-D and 58-D flashes I use with my M8 and 9 cameras. I have recently found a near mint Leitz CEYOO to use with my IIF and M4 Leicas and I had hoped to use it with my Rolleiflex 3.5F Planar TLR as well but the PC lead will not fit, as it is the early shallow push on and turn Leica type. I have been lucky enough to locate a Rolleiflash, complete with ring, arm and reflector for just £12. I have a pair of SBC to small base adaptors and I am on the point of buying an SBC to PF adaptor.

    For bulbs, I am proposing to start with PF1 and PF5 for the Leica and M3 for the Rollei. I only really take B&W in film now, so not worried about blue bulbs. Any other suggestions as to good bulbs to start with (taking availability into account, remembering I am in Europe).

    I am probably going to replace the capacitor in both flashes. Someone has in the past replaced the Leica capacitor but it looks like some time ago and the soldering is of the splatter and hope variety. Amazon have axial wire 470 μf/35v capacitors but not the original 100 μf. Do folks think that the high value capacitor makes any difference other than taking slightly longer to charge after you put the bulb in.

    Below pics of the CEYOO and Rolleiflash

    Wilson
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CEYOO.jpg   Rolleiflash.jpg  

  8. #38

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    First off as far as capacitors go they are not as needed as in the past. Decades ago the standard zinc-carbon battery held little total charge and had a short shelf life. So even when not in use they would get weak just sitting in the flash gun or in the unopened box on the store shelf.

    Several of the Kodak flash guns from the 50s could use regular AA batteries OR a 14 volt battery in combination with a capacitor. The capacitor just ensured that the flash went off if the battery was weak. Since 14 volt batteries are hard to come by today I just uses the AA batteries. With a fresh (unexpired) set of modern Lithium or Alkaline batteries I have never had a problem. Modern batteries are good for years on the shelf and setting a flash off only takes a very small part of their total charge. They should be good for 1,000 of flashes. With old style zinc-carbon batteries Kodak said to replace the batteries after only 100 flashes.

    Now I have a question. I have trouble in the USA finding Philips Style flash bulbs but M3 bulbs are common. In the UK is it easy to find M3 bulbs or are the Philips style bulbs more common?

  9. #39

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    Advantages of a capacitor

    One of the advantages of a flashgun with a capacitor is accuracy of firing. Now if you are using a camera at 1/30 sec, it is not too important but if you using say a Rolleiflex at 1/125 with a fast rise bulb, the flash needs to fire at exactly the correct time. The bulb gets such a whack of current with the capacitor, that it goes off instantly.

    You can find Philips PF1, PF1B and more rarely PF5, PF5B bulbs on UK Fleabay. The F in PF stands for "fast" not focal plane, therefore only useful for leaf shutter cameras, not Leicas or SLR's. PF1 has a guide number of about 40 and PF5 about 65. The blue bulbs about half this. My Leica IIFRD can just about use PF's at 1/30 because it has a unique feature. It has a small dial on top with settings of 1 to 20 which vary the delay between the shutter starting to open and the flash firing.

    There does on the face of it, appear to be one supplier in the UK, Marriottworld. However since the death of his wife, Stephanie last year, poor Fred Marriott is in such a state, that he has no idea of what stock he has and where to find it. I did not even get a reply to my last contact. All these second hand camera shops in the UK are closing down rapidly.

    I bought a rag bag of mixed bulbs (all BC base) from the nice guys at Pacific Rim Cameras. They probably have PF's if you need them. Bill Cress has them as well.

    Wilson

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianmquinn View Post
    First off as far as capacitors go they are not as needed as in the past.

    Absolutely WRONG!!!! The capacitors are part of the resistor-capacitor circuit which counts on the RC time constant to guarantee the proper timing and shape of the flash. This is basic electrical engineering. Please do not promulgate violations of the laws of physics!

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

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