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  1. #11
    DWThomas's Avatar
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    Based on only moderate light fall-off near the ends, I'd say your pinhole to film spacing is probably OK. Several of the images appear to show camera motion during exposure; a solid way to anchor it would be good. I actually have a tripod socket (a 1/4-20 threaded "T-nut") in my most recent one. As others have said, there appears to be some light leaks too.

    I didn't dig through that other site enough to learn what film format the guy was using. Generally from what I have seen, the larger the film format, the sharper the image. But sharpness can also be very much affected by the quality of the pinhole, as well as the size. A perfectly round hole with a knife edge in very thin material produces the best result.

    You certainly got some recognizable results, it was a good attempt.

    DaveT

  2. #12

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    Thanks..I don't want that curved ones. I want something like this: http://www.pinhole.cz/cz/pinholecameras/l_053.html
    This photo is sharp and and has from white to black scale..

  3. #13

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    Thanks very much

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by DWThomas View Post
    Based on only moderate light fall-off near the ends, I'd say your pinhole to film spacing is probably OK. Several of the images appear to show camera motion during exposure; a solid way to anchor it would be good. I actually have a tripod socket (a 1/4-20 threaded "T-nut") in my most recent one. As others have said, there appears to be some light leaks too.

    I didn't dig through that other site enough to learn what film format the guy was using. Generally from what I have seen, the larger the film format, the sharper the image. But sharpness can also be very much affected by the quality of the pinhole, as well as the size. A perfectly round hole with a knife edge in very thin material produces the best result.

    You certainly got some recognizable results, it was a good attempt.

    DaveT
    not so sure about the film size, 35 has always worked fine for me.
    but you're right about the rest, pinhole quality is probably most important.

  5. #15

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    yes i did it by myself.

  6. #16

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    what did you make it in and with?

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by DWThomas View Post
    Based on only moderate light fall-off near the ends, I'd say your pinhole to film spacing is probably OK. Several of the images appear to show camera motion during exposure; a solid way to anchor it would be good. I actually have a tripod socket (a 1/4-20 threaded "T-nut") in my most recent one. As others have said, there appears to be some light leaks too.

    I didn't dig through that other site enough to learn what film format the guy was using. Generally from what I have seen, the larger the film format, the sharper the image. But sharpness can also be very much affected by the quality of the pinhole, as well as the size. A perfectly round hole with a knife edge in very thin material produces the best result.

    You certainly got some recognizable results, it was a good attempt.

    DaveT
    Thank you so much. It's useful for me. I'm beginner

  8. #18
    edp
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    How big did Pinhole Designer tell you to make the hole? How did you make it? You can get a good idea of how big, and how round, the hole is by using a scanner.

    Don't ban me for saying sc*nner.

  9. #19
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    This looks to me like camera movement.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  10. #20
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    I just realized -- the examples you linked to are taken by the creator of Pinhole Designer, he has a head start on some of the rest of us!

    You can survey a few of my pinhole efforts on my PBase gallery site. The film images I took for WPPD 2011 (with a completely homemade 4x5) suggest it's my best homemade pinhole yet. My attempts with paper negatives indicate a little more tweaking, especially an adjustment of the pre-flashing, might be useful.

    So far, a body cap adapter for my Bronica, getting 6x6 cm format exposures, is the smallest format I've tried, so I don't have much feel for what 35 mm might do. I second the recommendation for Acros, as there are enough complications without adding large reciprocity failures.

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