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  1. #11
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    I rarely take pinhole photographs, but when I did I used color and black & white film. So as far a paper, that is a negative.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  2. #12

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    Don't forget to try Harman Direct-Positive as well. The result is then a unique one-off print, rather than a negative (paper or film) which can be contact-printed.

    If you find it necessary, the Direct Positive paper can be easily flashed in advance of use for coping with contrasty lighting, assuming that you have some sort of darkened room available. Do it in the same way as for flashing a normal print - choose some level of flashing-exposure below that which gives the first visible grey.[/QUOTE]

    Than

    I better google Harman DPP right now. This may be the answer to my issue. I never heard of it. All the info you guys gave me is great and I am going to rethink the film vs paper issue. Glad I got the 25 sheets of 4x5 film though. I never worked with anything over 120. Thank you all.

  3. #13
    NedL's Avatar
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    Welcome to APUG and have fun!

  4. #14
    Dr Croubie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lloyd528 View Post
    I better google Harman DPP right now. This may be the answer to my issue. I never heard of it. All the info you guys gave me is great and I am going to rethink the film vs paper issue. Glad I got the 25 sheets of 4x5 film though. I never worked with anything over 120. Thank you all.
    While you're googling, don't forget to read this before you get your hopes up. Although they have promised to be trying to bring it back, we can only hope they succeed...
    An awful lot of electrons were terribly inconvenienced in the making of this post.

    f/64 and be there.

  5. #15
    SMBooth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lloyd528 View Post

    If you find it necessary, the Direct Positive paper can be easily flashed in advance of use for coping with contrasty lighting, assuming that you have some sort of darkened room available. Do it in the same way as for flashing a normal print - choose some level of flashing-exposure below that which gives the first visible grey.
    [/QUOTE]

    Actually direct positive is reversed so when pre flashing your looking for the first sign of the change from black to less than black. Not white to grey.
    http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/...0125691588.pdf

  6. #16
    DWThomas's Avatar
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    Most of my pinhole activity occurs on WPPD at the end of April each year, with maybe a few preliminary tests leading up to it. The last three years I have shot a few paper negatives, last year being the best so far. But my most reliable results have been with film. The latest toy is 8x10, with which I shot paper negs last year, as film is alarmingly pricey. I have since picked up some Fuji Green x-ray film I hope to work minor miracles with this April, we shall see. April seems to be an alarmingly busy time of year for some reason.

    Breakdown? Well, yeah, I'm a little broken down , but I'd say I probably have shot 85% (or higher) film to date, though I still plan to experiment again with paper negatives.

  7. #17
    Joe VanCleave's Avatar
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    Over the years I've used color film, B&W film, lith film, paper negatives and Harman DPP. But I'm mostly a paper negative shooter with pinhole. I both scan and convert to a positive image in PS and also contact print onto silver paper. I preflash the paper negatives and use grade 2 RC to control contrast, while other people use yellow filters with MG paper.

    I don't do much Harman DPP in pinhole these days, mainly due to the extremely slow speed and resulting long exposures. I prefer to shoot Harman with glass lenses. However, I do have an 8x10 box camera that I "optimized" for Harman DPP by using a larger-than-optimal sized pinhole, to gain a bit of speed at the expense of overall sharpness.

    ~Joe

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