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  1. #11
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    There was once also an Altoids Mini-Mints, which (appropriately) came in a mini-tin. Marcy Merrill calls these her "Spy-Pintoids" -- they'll hold just about a 35-36 mm length of 35 mm film, and have a projection distance of about 6 or so mm. I've seen other mint tins in that size range, as well, and seen images made with as little as a 24 mm length of 35 mm film.
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

  2. #12

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    Pin holes

    I love altoids idea. I am teaching a group of 4th graders what little I know about film photography. One of the projects that I want to do in the class is make pinhole cameras and this seems like the perfect medium. I know exposure is experimental, but could you tell me approximately what the exposure factors were for the picture shown in the thread? How did you drill the hole? I have a source for drill bits of .16mm, but they seem like they are probably very fragile, not suitable for a hand drill. We would probably use 120 film and I thought small NIB magnets would work perfect for holding down the corners. What works best for making the small tin light proof? I thought maybe electricians tape around the edges and magnet tape for the shutter. Thanks for you help. I am trying to save film by demystifying it to the next generation of photographers. LOL. Next month we will be going to a comercial dark room and developing a roll of film and making prints. After that it we will turn towards pinhole cameras.

  3. #13

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    Hi, check out pinhole.org for camera-making.
    The best lens is made by dimpling the sheet metal with a strong needle or push-pin, then filing the hole through with a metal nail file and/or emery cloth.

  4. #14
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by celeborn
    What works best for making the small tin light proof? I thought maybe electricians tape around the edges and magnet tape for the shutter.
    With my GumPintoids, I painted the interior of the tin black, covered the lid hinge openings with black masking tape inside and out (never use less than two layers of this stuff, it's not completely opaque), and put a gasket of black "Foamies" material around the inside of the lid to seal against single reflection leaks entering under the lid edge. I've left them with Tri-X in for a couple months without any sign of fogging.

    For those, I use black electrical tape for the shutters, because there's embossed lettering on the lid, too close to the pinhole to get a good light seal with a magnet, but on my next "tin" camera I plan to use the little black "craft" magnets that came, 8 for a dollar, from the dollar store. Each will get a small wooden handle attached with hot glue, to make it easier to remove from the camera face.

    BTW, a package of those still in the blister makes a dandy tool for retrieving a shutter spring that has sprung to an unknown location...
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by celeborn
    We would probably use 120 film and I thought small NIB magnets would work perfect for holding down the corners. What works best for making the small tin light proof?
    I have lately been using button neodymium magnets to create my pinhole covers ("shutters") and that seems to work pretty well although they are a little bit too strong on a tin unless you cover them with a bit of tape. I use a black flocked paper to cover any light leaks--just glue it on and go.

  6. #16

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    my shutter is a blob of 'blu-tak'. It's not ideal as we all know that stuff doesn't actually work as described and can leave bits behind. especially when it heats up! However, that's what I had handy for my 1st experiment and I've never tried to improve on it! I usually 'tune up' my pinholes prior to use, so I haven't tried to take a shot through a chunk of it stuck in the pinhole yet!

  7. #17
    Andy K's Avatar
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    There was an interesting write up in last month's Black & white Photography on the Tortuga 5 pinhole camera. Yes it has 5 pinholes! You can see it on the Retrophotographic site here. You have to scroll down a bit.


    (It's a bit pricey though!)


    -----------My Flickr-----------
    Anáil nathrach, ortha bháis is beatha, do chéal déanaimh.

  8. #18
    tony lockerbie's Avatar
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    I have fitted a pinhole to a recessed Linhof Tecknica lensboard and attached it to my Linhof Kardan color. By racking the lens standard back and forth I have myself a zoom pinhole! Works really well and I can use it with double darks or polaroid type 55.

  9. #19
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    I've got a similar setup with my Ideal plate camera -- 1927 camera, pinhole made in 2005, Tri-X Professional (ISO 320) film expired in 2004. Mine is set up to use the original shutter with the glass just unscrewed and stored away; quite handy to have a cable release socket with both B and T modes available.

    I'll most likely carry that ability over to my Speed Graphic when I get it, too...
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

  10. #20

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    My fave p/h camera has been in use for about 12 years, one of those cylindrical cardboard containers which the better brands of Port (the fortified wine) come packaged in. The first one I had utilised 5 holes, but the one I use constantly has 4 which is better suited & has no overlapping, I never use it as a "360 deg panoramic" too corny for me, instead as a four-shot camera.
    It's extremely wide & I use 120 film (I get 4 lengths from a roll) wrapped around one of those mini baked beans cans which is centred properly at the base of the cylinder. The lids they use are absolutely light-tight. I used to build these cameras but a trip to the supermarker will uncover many suitable containers for a p/h camera!! This has been an interesting thread for me, thanks! - David.

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