Here are several approaches to increasing shutter speeds in lensless photography. They all involve a reduction in image quality.
1. Reduce the film size.
2. Reduce focal length.
3. Use fast film: ISO 3200 film can be pushed to even higher speeds with a loss of shadow detail.
4. Use flash.
5. Use zone plates.
Pinhole cameras have been used for high speed photography. 70 years ago General Electric built a high speed pinhole camera to record the progression of electrical arcs at 120,000 frames/second (page 42-43, Photo Technique, October 1939). However, this special project has no application in conventional photography.
Last edited by Jim Jones; 04-17-2008 at 11:22 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: additional information
I switched to Efke25 in my 35mm matchbox pinhole cameras which, at f/90, put about EV15-EV15.5 at about 1 second. I use TMX in my 6x6 homemade pinhole for an EV16 at one second (f/256).
How do you like the Efke 25 for pinhole? I have a couple rolls for testing in my 645, thought I would test both lens and pinhole on that platform. Also bought some Efke 50 to shoot along side the 25. Planned on having it DR5 processed for positives.
If you're willing to accept a little bit of field curvature, a hyperfocal camera might be a better idea (you can find more information on these at http://pinhole.stanford.edu/hyper.htm). The idea (consistent with Ray's suggestion) is to get a simple positive lens element and stick it behind a slightly enlarged pinhole. You can get positive lenses in specific focal lengths from Anchor Optics for between $5-$10. I took the attached photos (on TMX) using a 50mm 4x5 hyperfocal camera that I built using an element from a trashed lens. The pinhole on this camera is about .45mm, creating an f-number of about f/107. With such a camera, your desired shutter speed should be possible (e.g., by pushing 400 film two stops on a sunny day).
That's a good compromise.
Where'd he go?
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I'm still here. I have been spending a bit of time trying to take this thread in before I replied and demonstrated my total novice apprach.
Originally Posted by Murray@uptowngallery
I understand what everyone has said about not getting a great exposure with my suggested method and am trying to read up on your comprimises (which I thank you all for giving me! )
Firstly I should explain what I want to do and why...
I've always been told to shoot what I love and what inspires me.
My #1 passion in life is mountain biking, (followed closely by music and photography) so I want to concentrate on Mountain Biking as a subject.
Telling a story of not only the personalities, but also the reason those people compete which is the traveling, the social life it provides, and the action and adrenelene etc.
This last point is the reason for this post. I really want to capture the action utilising something I'm also interested in, lensless photography.
Most other aspects of this sport (the places it takes us, the social life it provides and the personalities it involves) can be covered by relativelly low shutter speeds.
I have an idea for making a pinhole camera out of a full face mountain bike helmet (similar to a motorcycle helmet) so a smaller format size would suit this application.
The pinhole would be inside the helmet and the framing of the image would try to replicate the cyclist's view. i.e. the image would be framed by the opening at the front of a helmet.
This would be used to shoot the courses we compete at from the riders perspective. Some of which is the most beautiful scenery in Australian.
While taking action images through pinhole, is it possible to take multiple (sequenced) images of a single rider descending the course (all taken from the same position) and will the rider become visible in multiple positions across the image?
What I mean is, if the appropriate shutter speed is 8 seconds, can I take 16 x 0.5 sec exposures, and would the rider become visible in the image. I'm guessing not.
Hope this explains my intentions...
And thanks again for all the advise, I'll spend some time reading up on your sugestions and try to take it all in!
there are probably easier/faster/more effective ways to achieve what you have in mind
great ideas, but what will aspects such as using a helmet camera add to the final images?
why do you need to do the activity whilst you photograph it?
your multiple exposure idea, any object within the image area that does not move will be recorded and exposed correctly, anything that moves constantly will record a 16th less/thinner than normal/correct
Last edited by NathanBell; 04-21-2008 at 01:27 AM. Click to view previous post history.
A subject recorded in several exposures as it moves across a stationary background will appear like a transparent ghost, if at all. When the subject is brightly illuminated and the background is quite dark it works somewhat better. To best combine your interest in mountain biking, music, and photography you might bike to a scenic destination, set up a traditional pinhole camera, and time the exposure with music as Leopold Mannes and Leopold Godowsky did in the darkroom while they were doing the research that led to Kodachrome.
Two Leopold's on the same project. That's synergy. Maybe that's why such things aren't discovered every day.
Nathan - you need a second Nathan on this project.