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  1. #1
    John cox's Avatar
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    Need a standard lens for my Voigtlander Bessa R2

    About 5 years a go I spent a lot of time with my bessa R2, then I put it on a shelf and worked with medium format and used the wonderful zeiss lenses I had from my rangefinder on various digital cameras. However after rearranging assets I now find myself without a lens for my R2 and, call it OCD, I cannot tolerate that. I'm looking for a nice 50 or 35 mm lens with a vintage feel. I'll probably end up with a voigtlander 35 2.5 pancake or 40 1.4 SC, but is there anything else I should look at? I just bought a Jupiter 8 off eBay on a gamble that it will be a solid buy, focus well and not have aperture issues. If that doesn't work out is there a great lens in the $300 range? The 35 2.5 from voigtlander is about that and the 40 (my preferred lens) not much more.
    Cheaper is better, I'm a big fan of Konica and Minolta RF lenses but these seem to have spiked over the passed 7 or 8 years. I have about a hundred LTM to M mount adapters. I don't know much about Canon RF lenses but I'd rather not spend a whole lot on an old lens from canon.

    Thanks in advance,
    John

  2. #2
    Mustafa Umut Sarac's Avatar
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    John,

    Good night, If I am not wrong, its 3AM at Ontario and you are an night owl like me.

    Leica Screw Lenses are excellent. Especially Elmar, Summaron and Summitar. Their quality increases quality whatever you shoot.

    I dont give a dam to Japanese Tourist lenses. Or you can buy a Soviet lens , many for 300 dollars from reputable seller , especially Jupiters.

    Umut
    Istanbul

  3. #3

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    In my experience the Jupiter-8 can be an excellent and cheap lens, however, the focusing issues people mention are real. You may need to shim the lens to get accurate focus, particularly close up, as they aren't built to exactly the same standard as LTM-proper. That said, if your example does focus accurately [or can be made to do so] they are pretty good. I've had a couple, and both were excellent. Neither focused completely accurately wide-open and close-up on my Leica body without shimming.

    I use a Summar on my Leica body. They are, perhaps, a bit more of a 'character' lens. Mine is coated and sharp and with decent contrast stopped down, but fairly soft and with wild out-of-focus areas at the widest couple of apertures. They can be found very cheaply. Perhaps not as predictable or standard in rendition as the Summitar, say.

  4. #4
    John cox's Avatar
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    What's the bests way to have a Jupiter serviced? Is there someone or somewhere I can send mine to for a CLA and Shimming? The one I purchased is coming from Russia so it will be a while before it gets here, but I would love to have a functioning model even if it arrives a lemon. This may end up being a bit of a journey for me and an adventure. I'm looking forward to this more so now, and if this works out I may buy a Jupiter 12 Jupiter 3, and Industar 61.

  5. #5
    gb hill's Avatar
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    The J-8 is easy to shim yourself. I did a J-3 that was front focusing on my Bessa R. Shoot a test roll when you get the lens. If it front focuses you grasp the front of the lens & it will simply unscrew. Most time the original shim is too thick. In my J8 & my J3 both shims were replaced with much thinner shims, like paper thin. The idea I was told by Brian Sweeny is to get the rear glass closer [back] to the film plane. On the J-3 you can screw out the rear part to bring it closer. Not too sure on the J-8. J-8 I have was already shimmed when I got it. Google info about modifying a J-8 lens if I'm confusing you. Good luck with the lens. BTW you can make a shim out of a plastic milk jug. Doesn't have to be metal.



 

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