i've already got a pocketable one, but lacking a free pocket - was considerin me options like
Sekonic makes one as well....the L-208.
I have one for my Rolleis, when I want to cheat hah!
I know, with certainty that SOME meters could substitute 1.5v for the original 1.35v battery, and not have a problem.
Originally Posted by MattKing
But SOME meters absolutely cannot simply be compensated for even a constant 0.15v difference simply because the amount of meter error is different at different levels of light being measured! The meter in the Olympus OM-1 is one of these...I know, because I still have a few mercury oxide cells and compared the mercury oxide reading with a 1.5v substitute, and the error was NOT consistent at different light levels.
Last edited by wiltw; 01-17-2013 at 12:24 AM. Click to view previous post history.
The Pentax Spotmatic series may all be ok (when they use a bridge circuit with Silver Oxide or alkaline batteries).
Originally Posted by wiltw
The Pentax K1000 series ditto (they use a dual coil galvanometer for similar effect)
But I'd use silver oxide in either myself, e.g. cept when stuck on Sunday, with dead battery and no shops.
The rest probably all need a Shockley diode to drop the Silver ovide 1.5 volts (nominal) to close to 1.33 volts.
Most of the time I remove battery and use sunnyside f/16...
I have a little metraphot 3 that I sometimes use. It has a selenium cell. I had another handheld meter that was banged up but still had an active cell in it. It was a simple matter to trim the selenium cell to fit and surprisingly it didn't take any fiddling to read correctly.
edit: I did a little googling around and see there is a sort of tutorial on how a guy used a selenium cell from a solar powered calculator to repair his Metraphot 3
Last edited by GregW; 01-19-2013 at 09:52 AM. Click to view previous post history.
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+1 for the Sekonic L208 meter with shoe mount. Most of the time I have it hanging around my neck on a lanyard for incident metering, but when I go out with certain cameras it goes in the shoe. I bought a spare battery when I got it new around ten years ago, but it's still going strong on the original. That simple needle needs very little power to work.
I confess I'm a gear nut within my price range. ;)
Nikon FM2n, FG, FG20, N2000, Nikkormat, Olympus Stylus Epic
Minox 35EL, Voigtlander Bessa-L
Yashica-D TLR 6x6, Seagull TLR 6x6
Agfa Isolette 6x6, Welmy 6x6
Kodak Tourist 6x9 Anaston lens
thanks for the advice everyone. I managed to get a little working selenium cell type.
I was using a Sekonic L-208 for a while and switched to a Gossen Digisix. The Sekonic was great when there was adequate light, but performed poorly in low lit situations. The Gossen Digisix does much better in my experience.
The Gossen shoe mounter adapter is cheap yet overpriced - see a problem there? So I went with this from Adorama (a number of other brands are available).
mine(riginal gossen)does not require an adapter,the shoe mount is part of the housing, much more stable than any adapter.
I used a bit of super glue when I screwed the little adaptor foot on my Sekonic. Its pretty stable, but not everyone will want to do that.
Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht