here in Germany you pay from about 900 € = 1100 $ to about 1200 € = 1500 $ for a M 6 0.72 body in very good condition if you buy it from a dealer with warranty. Of course special versions and editions are collectibles. M 6 0.85's are seldom and more expensive.
Thanks for the rundown.
Originally Posted by jochen
0.72, 0.85's...What does this mean?
Originally Posted by elekm
I would want something super clean and not much signs of use.
I read how Hasselblad is halting support for one of its digital backs afetr 6 years. Do you think Leica will contiue to support these older cameras?
That is an interesting site. Thanks
Originally Posted by Mr.3D
there are versions of the M 6 with different viewfinder magnifications. The standard is 0.72 x and has frames for 28, 35, 50, 75, 90 and 135 mm, the 0.85 has a stronger magnification which is better suited for tele lenses and has no frame for 28 mm. In the following series also a 0,58 x magnification was introduced which is better for wide angles and not for tele lenses. The first M 3 had 0.92 x which was the most exact rangefinder, especially for 135 mm.
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Originally Posted by jochen
Thanks! I had no idea there were so many options.
I bought a M7 new in 2003 instead of a M6 because of the features. I'm very happy with it and won't sell it in any years in time.
I also bought an old & battered, but technically perfect, Leica M4-2 (all mechanical, no electronics). I like the M4-2 better than the M4, and would prefer the M4-P even more (but was too expensive for me).
The M6 and M7 are both legendary rangefinders. Major difference: M6 is all-manual exposure, M7 has also aperture-priority.
The M6 is all mechanical (= no batteries) and the M6-TTL and the M7 need batteries.
If money is an factor, get a nice M6 and spent the rest of your money on good glass. Also a technical perfect camera with cosmetic flaws is much cheaper and easier to use without the fear for scratches .....
I also bought the Leica M motorwind (new type) for my M7. It's great and gives even a better grip to the camera.
Here are some sites that might be helpful deciding what you need/want:
http://www.cameraquest.com/mguide.htm - (Leica M buying info)
http://photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/00Mf55 and http://photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/00a3cm - (users compare M7 with M6)
BTW: the Leica SL (or SL2) with older Leica-R lenses are also very good, but a lot cheaper!!
Also build like a tank, very nice contrast in B&W and a real "clunk" when fired.
"Have fun and catch that light beam!"
Bert from Holland
my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup
"I enjoy vintage cameras as “users,” rather than imprisoning them in some display case
My favorite cameras: Mamiya C330f, Nikon S2, Hasselblad SWC, Fuji GSW690 II, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T, Nikon F4s, Olympus Pen FT, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras.
It is already answered, but let me add:
Originally Posted by Iluvmycam
Before you will buy a body - ask yourself which lens you want? This is crucial. Also ask yourself can you live without build in light meter.
If you want 135mm - then go for M3 or M6 with 0.85. If you want 50mm then any body is good, M3 is the best. 35mm lens - go for M6 with 0.72 ... and so on.
I paid just under $2000 for my M6TTL (.85) new in 1999 and just under $1000 for a new 50mm f2 Summicron at the same time. The camera only needs a battery for the light meter and to fire the flash. It does not power the flash, just operates the flash circuit.
Leica SLR's were relatively heavy and had a limited range of accessories.