Hi the camera must have been cheap as I think I got my last Canon P/Canon VI cassette for 8GBP with Canon tub. They don't appear often though.
Originally Posted by E. von Hoegh
This is what I wrote in a PM earlier
...the Leica LTM, (and al least some Fed1 and Zorki1) all have 2mm of cassette axial freedom of movement with commercial cassettes to the DIN standard. Note I don't have complete sets of these FSU cameras and it is a well known Leica feature.
Part way through the IIIf production Leitz introduced a finger to the baseplate next to the cassette to stop the film jumping (falling) out of the outer pressure plate rails.
This is unlikely as I've used a IIf, two IIIc, four Fed I and five Zorki I over many decades and not seen it yet, if the pressure plate springs are weak it might happen all the time.
The photo spills over into the sprocket holes...
With Leicas there are two velvet less cassettes (coaxial)
The last is to the DIN standard and will fit both a LTM Leica and a M Leica and should operate ok except for Cl, M5, late M6 and post models M7 and MP. The former cassette is only for the LTM the M baseplate won't close.
The FSU LTM bottom loaders seem to be capable of operating FSU concentric cassettes, but I've got more than one type of cassette so one day I need to do a combinatorial search of which cassettes fit and operate ok in which bottom loader types I have ten or so different bottom loaders and several seemingly different cassettes and I doubt I have complete sets...
Hope this helps your query.
And Nikon, Nicca, Canon, Zeiss for Contax II and IIa, Kiev, Pentax, all did custom cassettes, (think the Pentax had velvet)...
Note the Nikon rfdrs and F and F2 cassettes may not have been all compatible some were, donno about the Contarex SLR and IIa compatibility, donno about the Canon LTM compatibility, the ones I have are all ok in Canon Vi and P but they are 'exactly' the same cameras/ body castings.
The Kiev, Contax II and Contax Iia (that I have) are all fully interchangeable.
It is all 'donno and must try harder'.
The cassettes I saw were in the 20-25 USD range.
The camera is cosmetically very nice, and shows virtually no signs of use - but it needs new curtains, and a very thorough cleaning/relubricating with modern lubricants. As soon as I get the curtain material I'll do everything at one go, I do not want to disassemble it twice!
I made a test roll using some old movie trailer, I noticed the perforations were visible at the top of the frame - 2mm sounds about right for the temporary shim I installed. I'll see if I can borrow some cassettes to see what fits. I don't mind modifying the cassettes, but I won't modify the camera.
edit - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-35mm-F...item485de7f991
Last edited by E. von Hoegh; 12-21-2013 at 12:40 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Well the photo in the link does look like mine but I dont think mine would work in a LTM Leica or M Leica...
And 29 USD nope.
I use plastic reloadables as well as Adox and Forma factory cassettes that have not been crimped.
But my chums get theirs from C41 mini labs that snip the film end - by using pressure sensitive tape to attach bulk unto the protruding end of the film of the discarded cassettes. The mini labs like recycling.
I've looked at a Canon P and its cassette chamber is built to the DIN/ISO standard.
The Canon casette that I use says 'Canon V Japan' think this means that it is made for Canon V could be Canon went to DIN for the Canon V and post models like the VI and P that I use.
The above V casette model has only 1mm of free axial movement in my P.
It will fit in a Nikon F2 but won't open.
It won't fit into a Zorki I d # 4925xx ie the baseplate won't close but this is because the lock arm cassette opening device has been modified (bent) for ( to locate)factory DIN/ISO crimped cassettes...
Yes, I have a source for those as well as some older reloadable cassettes. I would like to have at least a few of the correct Canon cassettes though. Patience is in order.
Originally Posted by Xmas
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I've developed the test roll, and it was a disaster.
Industar after cleaning: much worse than before, far away from being sharp. This lens is a part donor at best.
Soviet film canister doesn't leak light, which is great. But it doesn't help in terms of keeping the film in the right vertical position, which is what I hoped for. The film moves through the slit with considerable friction.
Zorki 4 simply slows down in the cold. I don't expect anything with this guy. However, Zorki C got some serious banding in above freezing, half of my test roll is a complete trash. Time for a CLA (at least I'll take a look under the top plate, I think). I've tensioned the springs as a temporary solution, tossed the camera into a freezer, took it out, and finally I've been able to pin-point exactly at what moment the issue starts: when the camera is cold, the first curtain stops somewhere along the way and both curtains are held like that, released when I release the shutter button. Doing photos in the wintertime with a camera like that isn't a good idea. It would work on B time only. Not sure if I want to have fun with these cameras at all or not, for now it's been a waste of time, at least in the cold.
Bad and ugly day today is what it is. Hope yours is/was better.
Sorry to hear the testing did not work as hoped. Cooler temperatures have a negative impact on mine as well, specifically rear curtain travel times. I've posted in another thread on the topic. I can make the problems mostly go away when I use a space heater to warm up the camera so I'm guessing it's an old lubricant issue. In any case I will have to do a full CLA on mine as well. I bought a Zorki 4 with a bad shutter so I'm using that one to learn. When I feel I comfortable with the procedure and that I can reassemble the mechanisms properly I'll try it on my good Zorki 4. I've had almost no time this week for cameras though. Perhaps this weekend I can make some time.
On the Industar lens are you sure it was re-assembled correctly. I don't understand how it would be worse unless some of the elements are not installed correctly. I took apart an old Cintar lens for my Argus and it took a few tries to get it back working properly again. I remember I had made some re-assembly errors but that was so long ago I don't remember exactly what I had done wrong, elements not seated well or in backwards or something.
You probably already know about this but I found some information on the backsighting method to re-calibrate the focus on my Argus lens after I had it apart and I have used it to verify focus calibration on my Zorkis. http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/collimator.html I use the second method in the article.
Regarding y-day-s events something also scratched my film. I guess both Zorki and cassette need some serious cleaning.
Industar 61 - there's hardly anything to go wrong with this lens. I've unscrewed the rear part, cleaned all I could and screwed it back together tightly. The rear element (group) is mounted in a separate barrel, there's no chance of it being mounted backwards or misaligned heavily. If it's bad, I can't do much about it. The barrel is aluminum, but the screws are steel, and it all corroded beyond the point where I could unscrew it. It's not missfocused, but something is misaligned indeed. I'll do my best once more, shoot three frames and if it'll be bad - c'est la vie.
I'm not sure if problems with there cameras are limited to poor manfacture, looks like former users were also poor, not servicing them.