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  1. #21
    q_x
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    And just to reply myself, it seems like some cameras will have the image frame going higher or lower, than expected (if you have a landscape photo, land and sprocket holes may overlap, so it's related to the film not going high enough in the camera). This is normal, and it's caused by Soviet film canister size - apparently something like 1mm different from today's or western standards. So yes, that's a part of the fun as well. You'll find Cartier-Bresson photos with sprocket holes visible, it seems like it's a part of Leica heritage in this case. Noble error, I'd say.

    Maybe export or newer models, with "normal letters" are not affected (or less affected), I have no chance to check this now. Zorki C ('57) is almost OK (worrying, not erratic), but Zorki 4 ('68) goes with the image on sprocket holes. Kiev 4am and FED 5 are a part of my history now, but FED was also slightly off-center. Kiev had frame spacing problem, not really ruining anything, just annoying (one more thing to check...). I have a soviet canister here, I'll check it with my Zorki C this winter. From what I see, it won't work properly with Zorki 4.

    Also, some folks are reporting, that if your film breaks or tears during rewind, you should try Kodak film. Same reason, different effect. It won't help with the film going too low though.
    Use the Force, Luke!

  2. #22

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    (the shutter-speed-after-cocking rule)

    Quote Originally Posted by j-dogg View Post
    FED2 owner here.

    It's not a myth.
    Hmm, I'm sitting here futzing with my FED-2 and I can't convince myself that it matters on this model. The selector dial and speed indicator rotate along with the shutter release shaft, so the indicator points to the same speed the whole time.

    On the Zorki-4/Mir and probably many others, the selector rotates but the indicator doesn't, so the indicator is only right when the shutter is cocked. If you try to set the speed uncocked, it'll point to the wrong speed; I did this once and was able to undo it, but that was on a Mir (no slow speeds), and it's possible it would have fouled the slow-speed escapement on a camera that had one.

    Have you had an actual problem with this on a FED-2? I'd be interested I the details if so.

    -NT
    Nathan Tenny
    San Diego, CA, USA

    The lady of the house has to be a pretty swell sort of person to put up with the annoyance of a photographer.
    -The Little Technical Library, _Developing, Printing, And Enlarging_

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by AgX View Post
    I consider this an internet myth.
    May be a myth on the internet but it is a truth in the owner's manual (page 5).

  4. #24
    AgX
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    It's page 6 on mine...

    Anyway I think I had no final problem doing it the other way (my sample is not at hand now). And I know people who disassembled their sample and could not find a reason for this at least concerning spoiling the mechanism.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by q_x View Post
    But it's not a sample of one!
    I've read an article about using vibrations to center lens elements during re-assembly. Hence my I-61 remark, I just need a spanner wrench.

    Russian glass was made really well, metal parts have measurable tolerances, that were rather strict, and the main problem was the assembly made by hand and the toll that the time took afterwards. Workers were working in a society, where sober people usually cooperated with the regime, vodka was the common way to control the masses, it was used to survive the working day, as well as to socialize on Sundays and holidays, cure diseases and survive the bitter Siberian cold. Also, there was a system of quantity standards (rather, than quality). So if there was a plan to make X lenses, plus 20% to please some people, the lenses could have been produced incomplete, out of incompatible or rejected parts (mixing parts from two production series would be a hypothetical example here).

    So yes, cleaning and careful re-assembly will sometimes make things better.
    I've read a lot in the 'net about Soviet lenses, my comment was meant as an antidote to all the "I bought one and put it on my digithingy and it sucks so all Soviet lenses suck!' comments.
    As for centering elements with vibration, I've read that too. Here's what I do - as you tighten the retaining ring, start by very gently snugging the ring to the glass, then roll the cell between your palms, or gently squeeze the cell alternately at 90 degrees - the idea is to flex the mounting enough to let the glass find it's own center between the cell and retaining ring - then turn the ring a wee bit more, you'll notice that it's become loose. Keep squeezing/rolling and very gently sneaking the ring tighter, after a while you get a feel for this. You don't need a vibrating gadget, just educated fingertips.

  6. #26

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    Agx is correct but there are caveats
    The Fed1 and Zorki I are Leica II clones and it would be difficult to change speeds before setting the shutter but you can do double exposures easy.
    Kievs are like Contax II before or after is ok but if you do it before you can minimise ribbon wear with some speed changes - don't ask. I can't recall easily
    If you don't have slow speeds and have a dial with the pointer on the dial it is ok but dont use force and don't go the long way round there is a stop
    If you do have slow speeds there is a stop where you would not expect it don't use force before or after.
    It is simpler to wind on immediately and not use force.
    There are felt less cassettes for Kievs and the LTM bottom loaders but there may be incompatible variations - not found any myself.
    There is total compatibility/interchangeability between the Kiev and Contax II cassettes - the cassettes and bodies are clones.
    The Fed and Zorki I are built to the Leica LTM standard for cassette size so there is 2mm of axial freedom with commercial cassettes, in theory but not had a slip yet though.
    Some ERC have slots for credit cards, cept you wrote the exp notes on them in pencil.
    The lenses all need hoods cause they are all single coated - Nearly.
    My favorite is a toilet seat Fed I ('36) although it's lens is uncoated it holds it's own against post war lenses.

  7. #27

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    My Zorki-4 arrived today. Beautiful camera as I had hoped. Almost no wear even on the case so aesthetically speaking I am very pleased. However..... comma........ there are two issues that concern me. The shutter speed indicator line does not appear to line up correctly with the indicated shutter speed. I can find the correct shutter speeds by going to B which is kind of by itself and notching down, and the speeds seem right. The other issue is that on the 1/30th speed, which is the flash sync speed and located differently on the dial, the shutter curtain does not close when the flash sync selector is set to X. It seems to close ok when its set to M though. I'm trying to decide if this is a show stopper or not. I'm running a roll of film through it today and tomorrow to see how that turns out.

  8. #28
    q_x
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    No wear often signifies a broken camera. Nothing to be happy about. What I'm picking up often looks like it collected a lot of mana through it's lifetime, and such cameras make me really happy.

    To correct positioning of the shutter speed dial you only need to unscrew two grub-screws located inside the knob itself. Cock the shutter, set a known time, take ~1mm diameter flathead ("glasses") screwdriver, undo 1 or 2 turns each screw, reposition the knob to match a given time, tighten the screws back and you're done. 1 minute fix, 99% doable without any heavy magick, 1% goes for stubborn screws. If that's the issue bothering you - thumbs up, it's trivial and easily reparable!

    The other issue I'm not sure of. It may be of a similar origin to the first, that is there's something wrong with how the flash delay dial is "calibrated". I have delay in ms on my body, but I assume it's the same thing, as X and M.
    In my Zorki 4 the grub-screw from this dial is missing, so I'm not messing around with this, and there ay be a good reason for this Anyway, if there's a position where it all works OK - for me, it works. I'd set it once and leave it like that forever.

    This is how things go with soviet cameras in general. My Zorki 4 had a stiffened grease in the curtain rollers, so CLA was needed straightaway. In general, those are 40-50-60 years old cameras. The fact they haven't fallen apart really amazes me - foam from late 80-s is a sticky mess today, silver peels off the mirrors, there are no batteries of a given type... And with those cameras the only problem may be something like stiff focusing ring or badly assembled dials.
    Use the Force, Luke!

  9. #29

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    Fantastic. I loosened the set screws, re-positioned the knob, and tightened the set screws again and all is right on now.

    I ran into the issue you discussed about the shutter button not coming up on it's own after a rewind. It took a bit of fiddling but then it popped up and has been doing well ever since. I did tear the film off the film cassette spool trying to rewind my first roll and had to unload the camera in the dark to get the film in my dev tank. I must remember not to wind the film too near the end of the roll as not being able to complete the winding action appears to keep tension on the shutter cocking dog and keeps it from disengaging the toothed in camera spool.

    Quote Originally Posted by q_x View Post
    undo 1 or 2 turns each screw, reposition the knob to match a given time, tighten the screws back and you're done. 1 minute fix, 99% doable without any heavy magick,
    Last edited by Lamar; 12-09-2013 at 07:49 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  10. #30

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    Just pulled the film out of the tank and hung to dry. Frame spacing is good. Exposure is good at all speeds except 1/30th which is where the problem was with the rear curtain closing. It looks a bit slow and sounds a bit slow. Based on the negatives I'd say it's about 1.5 stops slow. I'll have to wait until tomorrow when the film is dry to scan and evaluate the focus.

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