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  1. #21
    Poisson Du Jour's Avatar
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    Incident or spot meter (e.g. Sekonic). It depends how critical your photography is, how important the result is to you. For a snap shooter, point-and-shoot based on experience (the so-called "force within") in many similar conditions. But there really is no substitute for building skills with metering early on; as you progress further into photography you will really appreciate the investment in metering skills.


  2. #22
    AndreasT's Avatar
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    In the beginning my negatives looked like a chess board.
    I double the film speed and take a incident reading in the shadows and keep that value for the rest of the day.

  3. #23

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    i never use a meter anymore
    if you pay attention to the light and the way you
    process your film, you won't need a meter either.
    ( they used to( do they still?) print exposure information
    on the inside of the film box. seems like if it was good enough
    for the film companies to suggest you pay attention to the light
    and expose accordingly it might still be a good idea ?

    http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm
    Last edited by jnanian; 04-20-2014 at 10:05 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #24

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    1 60th @ 2.8 w/100 speed film for nite shots.

  5. #25
    Alan Klein's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    i never use a meter anymore
    if you pay attention to the light and the way you
    process your film, you won't need a meter either.
    ( they used to( do they still?) print exposure information
    on the inside of the film box. seems like if it was good enough
    for the film companies to suggest you pay attention to the light
    and expose accordingly it might still be a good idea ?

    http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm
    I seem to recall that the instructions in the boxes indicated they were the settings when the time was between 10am and 2pm, when the light was basically flat and high in the sky. How do you estimate the light and apply the exposure setting at one hour before sunset? 45 minutes, 30 minutes, 10 minutes, 5 minutes, etc? There can be many stops difference during that period.

  6. #26
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Klein View Post
    I seem to recall that the instructions in the boxes indicated they were the settings when the time was between 10am and 2pm, when the light was basically flat and high in the sky. How do you estimate the light and apply the exposure setting at one hour before sunset? 45 minutes, 30 minutes, 10 minutes, 5 minutes, etc? There can be many stops difference during that period.
    Did you have a look at the link John included?
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  7. #27

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    Guesswork. Some days I'm good and some days bad.
    Leica. M6 - Zeiss Contax ll lla and llla - Nikon F Nikon F2a and F2 Photomic - Rolleiflex 2.8f - Contaflex - Contarex and Various folders
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  8. #28
    Regular Rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kivis View Post
    Question goes for really any meterless camera. I use an app on my iPhone (Pocket Light Meter), but I am trying to train myself to use the "force within". You know, try to remember or guess what the reading would be. Not that good at it yet. What are others doing? A real meter? Please be specific as I still, after all these years am wishing to learn more what others do.
    Exposure is so important that it seems folly to guess it, if a meter is available. Pentax Spotmeters are excellent tools but they are BIG! It's just something to put up with to be sure of good exposures...

    RR

  9. #29
    omaha's Avatar
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    Its really a question of speed and therefore a question of subject matter.

    If one is shooting a static subject in stable light, then using a meter is more practical.

    But when shooting candid photos of people, particularly in an era where they are conditioned to auto-exposure, auto-focus rapid fire digital cameras, you may not have the time to take a reading. Or if you take the time, and your subjects are patient enough to let you, you'll end up with a stiff, posed result instead of the natural candid shot you were looking for.
    I shoot digital when I have to (most of those shots end up here) and film (occasionally one of those shots ends up here) when I want to.

  10. #30
    fotch's Avatar
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    I use a real meter, there are many choices, mine happen to Gossen Luna Pro's. Film is expensive and I may really want that picture and don't want to waste the opportunity with the wrong exposure. If I don't want to have a separate meter then I use a camera with a built in meter, likely a Nikon SLR.
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

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