Idle question about the springs: are they replacable with anything standard, or do you need to get a box of real Zorki springs?
I don't have one, but I've wondered about this question for a while.
The TV screen stripe test helps. If the curtains seem (much of what appears to be needed done are based on impressions- how they sound, how they look) to be moving slow, the adjustment is rather easy. It's just a matter of retensioning. The method is very simple, it often takes barely a turn or two on the tensioning spring to adjust the curtain tension.
Originally Posted by matti
Maizenberg's repair notes suggest adjusting the shutters by ear- that is, by how they sound. One who has been around these shutters would tend to "know" what 1/25 sec would sound like and how different it sounds from 1/100 sec. This 'sound' method sounds unsound (pun), but it surprisingly works quite well. My shutters adjusted this way seem to be exposing with acceptable accuracy when used with BW or negative film. The method may not be accurate enough though, if reversal films are used.
Depends on what springs are involved. There are several types found in a Zorki.
Originally Posted by fparnold
The largest and hardest is a big flat spring found on the baseplate. I've actually fabricated one from a strip of stainless steel spring as a replacement for a missing original in one of my cameras.
The coiled spring (a rather tiny one) which powers the RF arm can be replaced with one which has the same dimensions- if it fits the adjustment screw, it may likely be used. I've used a spring from a discarded retractable ball point pen. These pens have springs to pop the ink cartridge in and out. The springs found in these pens though come in different sizes and strengths- its often a matter of luck in finding one which can fit these cameras.
There are also two, small curved flat springs which prop the pressure plate (for Zorki-1/C/2/2C/5 and FED-1). These also appear to be replaceable with equivalents if these can be shaped and sized properly.
There's one big coiled spring inside the shutter dial. This too can be replaced- it's not a powerful spring, and I've replaced this with a spring from a ballpoint pen, stretched out then recoiled to fit the shaft.
The most difficult spring to find IMO, -and one which you'd probably need a real Zorki spring (or at least a real camera spring) is the one which powers the shutter rollers.
Maybe I should give it a try then. But I suppose the best test is to expose something like the sky and adjust until I get an even exposure and not one side darker than the other.
Originally Posted by ZorkiKat
I've assembled my tool kit and want to begin working on these babies...do you know how hard it is to buy lighter fluid these days? I went to 6 stores before ending up in a smoke shop, where, of course, they had it. Used to be you could get it in any supermarket or variety store.
Anyway, I think the first thing I'd like to try is to unstick the lens of the Fed 3. It focuses, but with considerable wrestling involved. The shutter fires nicely, sounds about right, and the film advance works ok, though I think it could use some lubrication. If anyone has directions (esp. illustrated though not crucial) I'd appreciate you posting them up.
Jay, I tried your Fed/Zorki survival site but didn't see anything about unsticking the Industar 61 lens... I'll continue looking.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
Another product that's very similar to lighter fluid is VM&P Naphtha (Varnish Maker's & Painter's Naphtha). Some hardware stores sell it, often in a quart can. I don't remember the price off hand, but I'm sure it was a lot less expensive than a quart of lighter fluid, if you bought enough cans of lighter fluid to make a quart. Coleman lantern fuel is similar, too, but usually comes in gallon cans. Best to test these products for oily residues before using. One way is to pour a little in a clean, wide dish and let it evaporate, outdoors in a protected area. Then check the bottom of the dish to see if there's a thin oily layer left behind. If there's no residue, it should be OK for cleaning and degreasing camera parts. I've only tried the evaporation test on the VM&P Naphtha.
Originally Posted by Lowenburg
Happiness is a load of bulk chemicals, a handful of recipes, a brick of film and a box of paper. - desertrat
Thanks Rat, for the alternative solvents. There's a good paint store in town that I go to regularly, and they might have some Naptha. I also have a friend locally who reconditions cameras, I'm sure he will have some suggestions. It's definitely good to know about alternatives, because it always seems just when you need something, whether it's a tool, part, or substance, it's not there... I'm speaking from experience in other endeavors, as I'm a complete novice to camera work. But some principles, such as if when working on a car, you drop a screwdriver or a bolt, it will always roll under to beneath the middle of the car...
For a f2.8 lens one only needs to undo the three screws in the lens rear ring and lift off the ring. Work over a deep tray as the screws will be difficult to relocate in deep pile carpets. Remove any sealant with a dentist pick first...
If you operate the focus mechanism you should be able to see solid grease, remove all the old grease with cotton buds (q tips). Damp a few q tips in Zippo fluid, to get all the exposed (screw-heliciod) surfaces clean as you can.
With the dentist pick apply smallest drop of thin lube to each thread start. operate the focus mount dozen times, wipe off any excess with q tips.
Refit the ring removed replace screws, dont tignten screws like they were car lug nuts the ring is aluminium, and you are going to secure the three screw heads with a drop of nail varnish/lacqure from dentist pick, so they only need to be snug.
The best liquid lube is PTFE liquid from gun shop, Tandy or Radio shack, etc. but if you want to use sewing manchin oil it should do.
You need a screw driver thet fits the head nicely, carving knife or swisss army knife is no good. Normally the grease will have kept any sand out.
If you have a collapsible lens you need rubber gloves and smooth faced pliers. You use the gloves to protect the stop screw facing and increase the friction and losen the stop screw with the pliers, it may be tight.
The lens will then unscrew from the mount, you need wooden picks (cocktail stick use) to remove the old grease, and cotton buds and zippo to get the thread bottoms really clean.
Then I use a dentist pick to put a small amount of PTFE lube, in each thread if the lens is not too worn this is ok, most are brass and would self lube, if you dont have a specialist lube to hand. If the lens is really worn a really small amount of PTFE grease is sufficient. The more you put in the more sand will stick.
The thread is multi start but with trial and error is is easy to find the start, dont go mad with the pliers and rubber gloves as the stop thread is not lug nut thread, I normally seal with a droplet of nail varnish on the flat plate, but it is overkill, and if you get it in the threads it will be excessively tight the next time.
A scythe and a hammer?
If you do the TV test you need to be aware that it is ultra sensitive, you will see the accleration in both blinds which will be different! And the gap wont be constant, even a factory fresh M will show this. It is a feature of the Leitz cloth shutter design.
Set up by ear on a camera that you have flushed with zippo and fine oil is ok even for chrome film.
Dont squirt Zippo like water pistol, droplet from dentist pick, or if you need quantity between tweaser jaws. You need to keep Zippo away from curtain material, invert camera so that a spill wont mean a clean up of curtian is needed. if you really want to clean use fine artists brush damp with Zippo, mop up excess with q tip but dont use near sharp surfaces or you will leave cotton debris behind.
When you run in fine oil it will mix with any grease residue. Again I use the liquid PTFE as it has wide temperature performance for winter shooting, it has minimal creep near to optic unlike fine oil.