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Thread: Zorki-4

  1. #11

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    I like Zorkis. But.. the Zorki 4 (one with painted on SS one with etched SS) both will not let me come out of film rewind. The little button you push to let you do it... gets stuck. You cannot get it t advance the film, no matter where the 'r' lever is set.

    Now my Zorki 1. What a camera. Trim the film leader to Leica specs, go shoot. Nice camera.

    I use my Jupiter 85mm on a 42mm fujica 6xx series camera. Nice setup.

    tim in san jose
    Where ever you are, there you be.

  2. #12
    Martin Reed's Avatar
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    The Zorki 4 is one of the few cameras you can severely damage just by using it normally. I recall getting a brand new one & writing the shutter off by changing speed before cocking it. The Zorki 6 was a finer piece of work (if you can use that sort of qualification for these!) but lacks speeds below 1/30th.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by k_jupiter View Post
    I like Zorkis. But.. the Zorki 4 (one with painted on SS one with etched SS) both will not let me come out of film rewind. The little button you push to let you do it... gets stuck. You cannot get it t advance the film, no matter where the 'r' lever is set.

    Now my Zorki 1. What a camera. Trim the film leader to Leica specs, go shoot. Nice camera.

    I use my Jupiter 85mm on a 42mm fujica 6xx series camera. Nice setup.

    tim in san jose

    Not sure but you must turn (clockwise)the shutter plunger itself (should be a dot on it) back to line up with the dot on the top plate. It has a tendency to twist counterclockwise when releasing the shutter collar to rewind.
    All three dots have to line up at 6 o`clock to be in the film advance mode.
    John

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Navy E9 View Post
    Not sure but you must turn (clockwise)the shutter plunger itself (should be a dot on it) back to line up with the dot on the top plate. It has a tendency to twist counterclockwise when releasing the shutter collar to rewind.
    All three dots have to line up at 6 o`clock to be in the film advance mode.
    John
    I'll look at that. It seems the little mechanism at the bottom of the camera that engages the sprocket drive won't return to the up position. This might be the cause.

    That would be nice. I like the Jupiter 50mm lens that are on them

    tim in san jose
    Where ever you are, there you be.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by k_jupiter View Post
    I'll look at that. It seems the little mechanism at the bottom of the camera that engages the sprocket drive won't return to the up position. This might be the cause.

    That would be nice. I like the Jupiter 50mm lens that are on them

    tim in san jose
    My suggestion is exactly what you need to do having re-created your exact problem myself.
    John

  6. #16
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    For rewinding, I turn the knob below the shutter release as far clockwise (down) as it will go. Once the film is set in the reel then for loading, I return the knob to the counter clockwise and turn the film advance knob to make sure there's tension. I've noticed that sometimes it will take a little bit to catch.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by kman627 View Post
    For rewinding, I turn the knob below the shutter release as far clockwise (down) as it will go. Once the film is set in the reel then for loading, I return the knob to the counter clockwise and turn the film advance knob to make sure there's tension. I've noticed that sometimes it will take a little bit to catch.
    And sometimes it will not catch , that is if the shutter button happens to get rotated a hair counter clockwise .
    And that`s exactly what I `ve been trying to explain here.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhotoJim View Post
    Nothing wrong with the J-8.
    I like my Jupiter 8 also. The lens had to pass 31 lines/mm at the center and 14 at the edges to be certified by the factory. I presume these are 'wide open' values. The less expensive Industar seems to have better specs, but can't be tested at F2.0 because its a F3.5 lens.



    Translated it says "Definition on film of 'KH-1'" then the columns on the bottom table show "lens tested," "Center," "Edge"

    The first lens is the F3.5 Industar, which was required to get 38 lpm center and 20 lpm edge. The second lens listed is the F2.0 Jupiter-8 which was required to get 31 lpm center and 14 lpm edge to pass.
    Last edited by ic-racer; 03-06-2008 at 03:01 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #19
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Navy E9 View Post
    And sometimes it will not catch , that is if the shutter button happens to get rotated a hair counter clockwise .
    And that`s exactly what I `ve been trying to explain here.
    I have had this happen also.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Navy E9 View Post
    My suggestion is exactly what you need to do having re-created your exact problem myself.
    John
    Well damn! If that wasn't the problem. I took the Zorki out, found the two dots off by a quarter turn, adjusted them and now the camera works. When I find the second one this weekend, I am sure it will be the same thing.

    Off to shoot with my Jupiter 8s.

    tim in san jose
    Where ever you are, there you be.

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