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  1. #61

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    Thanks, my film of choice is Efke KB25 EI 32 in Rodinal 1:100 for 60 minutes. I know that Rollei Pan 25 is slightly sharper, but I like the tones and character that the Efke emulsion gives me.

    As for a lens, the new Voigtländer Ultron 28mm f2.0 has been a real eye-opener in what high-quality lenses can deliver. I do have a Contax G2 with a 35/2 that a friend loaned me, I really wanted try the 45/2, but he won't part with it even for a few days. I have also considered a Summicron 35 Asph, but I have to rework the budget before I can make that acquisition.

    The next lens that I am going to try is the Voigtländer Collapsible Heliar 50mm f3.5 that came in the anniversary kit with the Bessa T. This lens is supposed to be among the very best ever tested by various 'authorities'. I should have one in my hands within a fortnight, so we shall see.

    While printing at 20x24 will allow me to crop off the corners, which could be considered cheating and make the task abit easier, but I would really like to find a kit that would let me print 20x30.
    P. Lynn Miller
    Sydney, Australia

    Photo of the day... week... whatever...


    And I have one of those Flickr thingy's...

  2. #62
    keithwms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by p3200TMZ View Post
    I would really like to find a kit that would let me print 20x30.
    Mamiya 6/6MF/7/7ii, or perhaps one of the earlier Mamiya folders, or a Fuji GW/GSW690 or 670 or 680.... all of these are reasonably compact.

    I understand that the Efke is great when it is great, but some spurious batch issues have scared me off it. Perhaps I should give it a try again. I do shoot various efkes for LF.
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

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  3. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by p3200TMZ View Post

    While printing at 20x24 will allow me to crop off the corners, which could be considered cheating and make the task abit easier, but I would really like to find a kit that would let me print 20x30.
    Before you spend a fortune on camera gear, make sure (if you haven't already) that you have the best enlarging lens possible, that everything (neg stage, lens plane, paper plane) is parallel and that the printing paper is held really flat (if necessary with a vacuum frame). Above all I would check vibration by placing a glass of water on the printing easel. Watch this closely as you carry out all the operations necessary to make a print! If necessary, place your enlarger on a big concrete slab and move well away from railroad tracks, airports and expressways. Don't even think about making 20x30 prints if you have a wooden floor!

  4. #64
    keithwms's Avatar
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    I agree with what Nemo just said, and to take it a step further, you really might consider contact printing to get to that size. If you drum scan a 35mm neg to produce an enlarged neg, then you can completely eliminate the issues introduced by your enlarging lens and your enlarger (if they aren't optimal). Most important, for me, is that I like to print to matte fiber, which isn't exactly flat for starters, and I don't have a large vac easel nor the kinds of enlarging lenses that can go to such large enlargements without giving up edge sharpness. But when contact printing, you can just throw a cheap piece of glass over the enlarged neg and the paper and... voila. Super-flat, and the highest resolution enlarged print possible. Bear in mind that the paper you're printing to has no fantastic resolution anyway, and you're not going to lose any appreciable information in the contact printing stage, so the only degrdation of the image is in the scanning phase, and that can be just about as perfect as you are willing to pay for.
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

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  5. #65
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    Something that many people don't consider is how accurately the camera will focus.
    That plays a huge role in the final result, as even the worlds sharpest lens won't be that sharp if even slightly out of focus.

    All cameras are definitely not created equal in that aspect.
    A rangefinder can have an advantage over an SLR in many poor lighting situations.

    All SLRs are not at all equal in their focussing ability either; the brightness, quality and type of focussing screens not being the only important parameter. The entire design of the mirrorbox and prism can make a huge example.
    For example, an optimized mirror-prism-screen combination such as the Leicaflex SL (the best of many cameras I've used for focusing telephoto lenses) is worlds apart from, say, using manual focus on an AF camera.

    If you are shooting mainly landscapes or keeping the lens on hyperfocal, then the ability to focus very accurately may not be very important.
    Otherwise, think carefully about what your typical use will be.
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  6. #66

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    I shoot 5x7 and 35mm together. My camera of choice for 35mm is a Leica M6 with various Leica and Voigtlander "M" mount lenses. My M6 was purchased very well used. It always works, metering is spot on (I use it to meter for my 5x7 shots) and the shutter is so vibration free I have never got a shot that was blurred by camera shake. I shoot 5x7 b/w and 35mm slides of each shot I make. I toss the camera in a gym bag along with 5x7 holders and a few lenses for the 5x7 and the old Leica never complains.

  7. #67
    Polybun
    Quote Originally Posted by rob champagne View Post
    Difficult to quantify I know but how much difference in image resolution and sharpness would you expect to see when moving from a high quality 35mm slr system to a high quality rangefinder system. I'm thinking specifically of comparing contax/zeiss to zeiss ikon/zeiss image quality. Perhaps in terms of how much extra enlargement you could get out of the rangefinder before noticeable degradation of image quality compared to the slr.

    I fully realise there are many other factors to consider about the differences and use of the two systems and what they are best at doing, but for this specific question assume expansive landscape images and cameras on tripods.
    Will the rangefinder give noticeably better quality images at say 12 times enlargement.

    Umm, what difference would the body make at all in that case?? Quality is quality, the system used for focusing at that point doesn't mean dick.

    Hell enlargment size has nothing to do with even the lens or the camera body, but the film itself. You need to take some classes on logical thinking before you learn anything more about anything else.

    The fact I have to share the world with people with this little amount of reasoning ability worries me greatly.

  8. #68
    Polybun
    Quote Originally Posted by rob champagne View Post
    Lets not presume we know the reason for the question. Just because I ask about one particular aspect of a camera/lens system doesn't mean thats all I'm interested in about the system. It just meanss thats what I would like to know about at this time.
    Well, what you are failing to get, is that there is no simple answer to this question. Its a technical question, and unless you are willing and able to comprehend all the aspects of the answers, then you will not be able to understand the answers.

    I would venture, you know so little, you don't even realize how complex of a question you are asking. One word of advice. "The Best" is bullshit. There is no such thing as "The Best."

  9. #69
    Polybun
    Quote Originally Posted by p3200TMZ View Post
    While I know that medium format will beat the 'livin' daylights' out of 35mm any day of the week, I started this search since I am trying to replace my medium format kit with 35mm due weight and space constraints of travelling by bicycle. So my goal is the find the lens/film/developer that allows me to make the best possible 20x24 prints from the 35mm format. I know this is asking alot...
    Why not get a smaller medium format camera? I shoot medium format from my bike. Hell, I don't even own a car, so anything I shoot is done from my bicycle. This includes a Graphlex Crown Graphic!

    I don't think 20x24 from 135 will ever be all that great, never as good as even the lowliest of medium format rigs. Even with the best glass in the world, the film is going to let you down at some point. I don't think even PanF on the best glass on the planet would look real spetacular at that size, not compared to a 6x7 or 6x9 negative.

  10. #70
    Polybun
    Quote Originally Posted by Rol_Lei Nut View Post
    Something that many people don't consider is how accurately the camera will focus.
    That plays a huge role in the final result, as even the worlds sharpest lens won't be that sharp if even slightly out of focus.
    So there is no such thing as depth of field or hyper focal I guess.



 

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