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  1. #11
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Which 35/2.0 lens do you have? I assume an AF one. One that is manual focus only will probably be easiest to manually focus (AI-S or AI, for example). I have found this to be the case with my 10D. An adapted Nikon F lens always focuses easier than an EF lens focused manually.

    Also, the screens on AF cameras only show you the D of F and brightness of f/2.8 or so. In addition to making it more difficult to focus, this also means that when shooting at apertures wider than f/2.8, you actually get less D of F than you see in the viewfinder. You also lose the center focusing aid on most modern stock screens.

    Canon has type S screens to partially cure these problems, and I am sure Nikon has something similar. It is probably advertised as being "optimized for fast fixed-focal-length lenses", or something like that.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  2. #12
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    It's the AF one. The F100 does have a DoF preview button, and I've made a habit of using it when I'm not shooting wide-open.

    The thing about the focus indicator is that I feel like it defeats the purpose...When I want to use manual focus, I want to use it because it is faster, or it lets me focus on something not on an AF point. Using my brain can sometimes be faster than selecting an AF point, even if I'm in MF.

    That is why I love manual focus...It lets me focus in on any part of the scene faster if it isn't behind an AF point. I guess rangefinders somewhat defeat this purpose, but, eh. :\

  3. #13
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Have you tried using the AF taken off the shutter, using a single point, one shot mode, and focusing/recomposing? My AF is never set any other way (except very occasionally, on a tripod or with macro pix, I will choose a point other than the center, and occasionally I will use AI Servo mode with just the center point selected). Any other way, and I find AF to work poorly, even on some of the world's best AF systems like 1D series cameras. Why anyone on the planet would want auto selection of the focusing point, or would want AF control on the shutter is beyond me. There is no conceptual difference between doing this and using manual focus. Working like this, the AF doesn't decide anything for you; it just moves the elements for you instead of doing it with your hand.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2F/2F View Post
    Also, the screens on AF cameras only show you the D of F and brightness of f/2.8 or so. In addition to making it more difficult to focus, this also means that when shooting at apertures wider than f/2.8, you actually get less D of F than you see in the viewfinder.
    Huh? Howzzat work? I agree with the brightness part, but how can a focusing screen change the apparent dof on the screen?
    Eddy McDonald
    www.fotoartes.com
    Eschew defenestration!

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by AutumnJazz View Post
    The thing about the focus indicator is that I feel like it defeats the purpose...When I want to use manual focus, I want to use it because it is faster, or it lets me focus on something not on an AF point. Using my brain can sometimes be faster than selecting an AF point, even if I'm in MF.
    I've set the f100 so the AF-L button just starts the AF and leaves it alone otherwise. The AE-L button locks the exposure on first tap, unlocks on second. They're all custom settings. And the shutter button just turns on the meter. This way I can point the central focus blot at what I want in focus, tap the AF-L button, re-frame the shot and press the shutter. If I need to fiddle the exposure, re-frame and tap the AE-L button, then re-frame again and shoot: focus will still be where I left it. I don't shoot action with that camera so this works real well.
    Cheers
    Noons (Nuno Souto)
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee L View Post
    The Zeiss Ikon ZI has 28, 35, 50, and 85 framelines built in. Not sure about viewfinder magnification, but you can find it online.
    I'll second the ZM: I find its wide range of frames quite helpful. And they are reasonably accurate, erring on the conservative side: slightly smaller than the actual recorded image. In other words: if it's inside the frame, it'll be in the film frame for sure.
    Cheers
    Noons (Nuno Souto)
    Gallery here

  7. #17
    AutumnJazz's Avatar
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    Nobody has told me whether I'm crazy or not. :\

  8. #18

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    Sorry about that. You are crazy.
    Claire (Ms Anne Thrope is in the darkroom)

  9. #19
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    Eh, I think I'll forgo the 21/4 and end up with a 28/2, 35/1.4, or 35/1.2. How much wider (field of view, I guess) is 28mm compared to 35mm? (f/4 just seems too slow for me...I like to use ISO 50 film and slower.)

    What other cameras offer auto-exposure, and at least 28mm frame lines? I guess there is the Zeiss Ikon, but that is just one pricey camera.

    Thanks again.

  10. #20
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddym View Post
    Huh? Howzzat work? I agree with the brightness part, but how can a focusing screen change the apparent dof on the screen?
    As for the exact optical reasons, I do not know. But I know it has something to do with the design of the little fresnel (or whatever it's called) pattern cut/ground into the screens. They are designed to focus and optimize the viewfinder image for f/2.8 or slower lenses, because they figure most people using AF cameras are using zoom lenses.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

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