Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,880   Posts: 1,520,506   Online: 855
      
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 22
  1. #11

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New Jersey (again)
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    1,958
    To remove the top deck, it's best if you have a spanner wrench.

    Remove the screws on either end.

    Carefully remove the cap on the rewind lever. Carefully remove the small screw that is to the right of it about 1 inch (2.5cm-3cm).

    Carefully remove the cap on the film advance.

    I say "carefully," because it's easy for the tool to slip and scratch the camera.

    I can't recall if there is a threaded collar in the film advance. I think not. If there is, remove it. The top deck should now slip off easily.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Holland and Brazil
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    1,066
    Be aware that the shutter release needs a bit of a push (force) but not too much. It needs more power than am OM1 at times.
    My 35S Black has that problem since it was new, back in 1980.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New Jersey (again)
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    1,958
    To remove the top deck, it's best if you have a spanner wrench.

    Remove the screws on either end.

    Carefully remove the cap on the rewind lever. Carefully remove the small screw that is to the right of it about 1 inch (2.5cm-3cm).

    Carefully remove the cap on the film advance.

    I say "carefully," because it's easy for the tool to slip and scratch the camera.

    I can't recall if there is a threaded collar in the film advance. I think not. If there is, remove it. The top deck should now slip off easily.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Holland and Brazil
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    1,066
    And please don't do what elekm says: you will damage your camera !
    One screw goes clockwise to unscrew, please leave it to a repairman !

    Peter

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New Jersey (again)
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    1,958
    That's simply not true. If you take care, you can do this work.

    And there are no reverse-thread screws involved to remove the top deck of a Rollei 35. I just removed one now to make sure.

    The Japanese tended to use some reverse-thread screws, but the Germans (in general) did not.

    If you've worked on cameras before, then it's straightforward to remove the top deck.

    There are three small screws under the cap on the film advance. You'll have to remove those.

    There is a small spring that must be pushed out of the way when you replace the film rewind post. You'll see it.

    If you don't know what you're doing with a camera or don't possess mechanical skills, then I agree -- this is no time to start.

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Montgomery, Il/USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,995
    You can be assured it's not dried lube! If it doesn't have a broken or stripped gear(different symptoms) you may have a loose screw. Well not loose but migratory stuck in the gearing. Seen this a lot on the A Canons and sometimes Spotmatics..
    The screw holding th wind lever is the one with the two holes in it. It's made for a spanner wrench but a rubber stopper can be used to loosen it.
    Firmly press down on the screw and turn the stopper. If no one has used loctite on it it should unscrew. There are three washers/spacers under the screw note the sequence they're in so it can be reassembled correctly.

    If a sealant has been used a soldering iron can be used to heat the screw head & break the bond.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  7. #17
    neelin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    winnipeg, canada
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by elekm View Post
    Usually, the loading procedure is this:

    1) Extend the lens.

    2) Unlock and remove the back.
    1) Extend the lens "and twist lock until you feel/hear a resounding click."


    NOTHING shutter or transport related works until the lens is clicked into shooting position. And remember the shutter has to be cocked otherwise the collapse button to put the lens back in the body doesn't work. When the shutter is cocked the wind lever doesn't ratchet freely, it becomes fixed in the neutral position.

    (see my PM for additional info)

    Robert

  8. #18
    dpurdy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Portland OR USA
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    2,037
    Images
    38
    Send it to Krimar in New Jersey. He fixed my 35s a couple years ago and it is still perfect. It took 5 days total from my house on the west coast to his shop and back to my house. He must have fixed it right when he got the box and then sent it right out.
    Dennis

  9. #19

    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    1

    me too

    i have the same problem mentioned above. although i can extend my lens and also depress the shutter. but my winding mechanism is stuck in the same way mention by the initial poster.
    did you ever manage to fix your camera and find out what the problem with the winding mech was?
    any help would be great

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    NYC
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    111
    Neelin, that was it! Thanks man! It was that "click" that made it all happen!

    See you on Flickr!

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin