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  1. #1
    stradibarrius's Avatar
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    estimating exposure

    When you do not have a meter what are some tricks to estimating exposure ?
    I know the the sunny 16 rule, are there some others?
    If not what do you do if your rangefinder does not have a meter and you don't want to carry your hand held meter all the time?
    "Generalizations are made because they are generally true"
    Flicker http://www.flickr.com/photos/stradibarrius
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    Barry
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  2. #2
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Used to be within a stop. Back in the 60's my uncle & I used to guess the exposures for fun then check, he'd had to work that way before getting a meter, but we'd always be very close. 35+ years later I don't think I would be.

    That was the way photographers used to work, they had crib sheets for time of year, weather, latitude etc as well.

    Ian

  3. #3
    Christopher Walrath's Avatar
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    Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.167 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102 UP.Link/6.3.0.0.0)

    Doing a lot of guessing for general photography lately based on sunny 16 and accounting for contrast in b&w film. Been pretty close. And vc papers help too.
    Thank you.
    -CW

    "Wubba, wubba, wubba. Bing, bang, bong. Yuck, yuck, yuck and a fiddle-dee-dee." - The Yeti

  4. #4
    Anscojohn's Avatar
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    There used to be a guide packed in with each roll of film. Now it usually is printed inside the box.
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

  5. #5
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stradibarrius View Post
    When you do not have a meter what are some tricks to estimating exposure ?
    I know the the sunny 16 rule, are there some others?
    If not what do you do if your rangefinder does not have a meter and you don't want to carry your hand held meter all the time?
    The rest of the sky is around 3 to 4 stops less bright. So the shadows would be around f8 or f5.6. Then it also follows that a cloud over the sun (cloudy-bright) would be also about the same (f8 to f5.6). For me it gets more difficult at light levels lower than that but remember with B&W negative films you have six stops of overexposure latitude so error on the 'more exposure' side.

    What I do is use the mental cheat-sheet for ISO 100 when exposing ISO 400 film. It spreads the exposure latitude more evenly to both the under-exposure and over-exposure sides (around 3 stops each way).

  6. #6
    Ian David's Avatar
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    I think the chart at the link below has been lifted from somewhere else (I have seen it on another website but cannot remember where) - it contains a useful set of starting points for different situations:

    http://132.234.79.5/photo/PDF/Exposu...ue%20Chart.doc

  7. #7

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    Some excellent reading:

    www.fredparker.com

    -F.

  8. #8
    Ian David's Avatar
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    Ahh, that's the website it came from...

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred Aspen View Post
    Some excellent reading:

    www.fredparker.com

    -F.
    Agreed.

    The best available exposition on the web:

    http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm

    BTW, some of the older rangefinders (e.g. by Voigtlander -e.g.the Vitomatic IIa- and Minolta -e.g. the Himatic 7s) actually have built in exposure value (e.v.) scales as part of their exposure arrangements, which makes the application of Fred Parker's technique simpler.
    Last edited by Galah; 07-01-2009 at 07:15 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  10. #10
    jnanian's Avatar
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    i sometimes sunny 11 ... but i usually wing it 1/15thS wide open.
    my results are usually pretty close.

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