I'm the proud owner of a new (for me) canon canonete ql17 giii can't wait to play with it. Right now it's still in France (eBay, ya know) but soon it will hop the pond and start capturing California scenes.
One question: with it's metering can I get away with a linear polarizer or must it be circular?
I concur with GRHazelton. Circular polarizer is only required for auto focus cameras.
Just got a Kiev 4a, my first RF since my Leica M3 was stolen some 20 years ago. I was looking for a 'beater' IIIc or IIIf, but even those were more than I could afford. Then I read the Kiev story and was fascinated by the whole thing. Still haven't got any film through it, but I have a good feeling about this camera - 50 years old and both camera and case look nearly new. My only reservation is a little bit of 'play' between the back and body - does anyone know if this is normal? I guess I'll find out once I shoot a roll of film.
Just got a Olympus 35 RD from a local thrift shop for $10. Case it came with was pretty beat up so I've had to throw it away but the camera's shutter speeds seem okay. Aperture and focus seem a bit harder than my SLRs but I'm not sure if this is normal or not since this is my first rangefinder. Outside is very nice and the flash hotshoe cover is still on it. The seals look like they need to be replaced but aren't falling apart yet. Again since this is my first rangefinder I can't say whether the viewfinder is too dark or is normal. I'll run a test roll through it to see how it performs.
Just got a Kiev 4a, my first RF since my Leica M3 was stolen some 20 years ago. I was looking for a 'beater' IIIc or IIIf, but even those were more than I could afford. Then I read the Kiev story and was fascinated by the whole thing. Still haven't got any film through it, but I have a good feeling about this camera - 50 years old and both camera and case look nearly new. My only reservation is a little bit of 'play' between the back and body - does anyone know if this is normal? I guess I'll find out once I shoot a roll of film.
I recently acquired a mint condition Contax IIIa. It has that same play or "slightly loose fit" of the back. I wouldn't say it's normal, but it is noticeable. In my case it hasn't been cause for any troubles.
Time to look for a used Weston or Norwood. I scored a clean Norwood Director - ratty case, but no big deal - for $15 at a camera yard sale. At 50 or 60 years old it agrees perfectly with my Minolta Autometer. Plus it goes so well with my Vitessa L.
Thanks X.Phot. - Just processed a test roll, no light leaks; the only problem is how bad I've gotten at judging exposure.....
Hey Art,
consider yourself lucky.
I have a 4a that has the "common" lightleak that is coming from the rangefinder window. At least thats where I suspect it is coming from. Same streak everytime in the same position radiating from a lower sprocket (would be the top sporcket in camera due to lens image is inverted.)
I see the fix at a Kiev site that mentions the sealing for the top/sproket drive can fail.
I will have to take the top off for closer inspection.
I just picked these up from an estate sale collection:
Konica:
FT-1 (3), one in black
FS-1 (2)
Autoplex T (2)
Auto S2
Auto S1.6
Konica III
Canon QL17 (3) and a Bell & Howell 19
Pentax P3
Yashica
Electro 35 GSN (2) and a GT in black (mint)
Zoom 90
EE
Minolta XG-A and a HiMatic 11
Olympus XA and two 35 RCs.
Pentacon w/ Zeiss Biotar 58mm/f2 lens.
Argus C44 w/ 50mm and 100mm lenses.
Zeiss Ikon Contaflex (3 vintages) and a Tenax
Voightlander Vito BL
and a Werra 3 w/Zeiss Tessar 50/2.8 (really neat little camera.)
Oh yeah..and a Kowa Six w/ an 85mm/ f2.8
There were also a bunch of lenses including a Konica Hexanon 58/1.4 and an 85mm/1.8, both sold already for 1/3 of what I paid for the lot. Oh yeah...about 60 filters as well.