As far as I know, we're talking about pretty blunt tools here. I don't think a few months in a box is going to affect your results in any appreciable way. As for using coffee recipes on paper development, it works well with any standard recipe. I tend to mix it a little strong, but I don't know if that is really necessary.
Cheers, and enjoy your coffee.
Yes it does look quite basic. But the old satement "don't let fear or common sence hold you back" I just say the toning that is done on a picture really brings out some nice qualities of the pics. This weekend sounds like a very good time to put my plans into practice.
Do it... and post some results.
Hey guys. Have any of you developed APHS in coffee with good results? I'm looking to get some of the film soon and I'm looking at interesting alternatives to dilute print developer or very dilute Rodinal.
My first presentable coffee print. I LIKE the way it looks. A few little bugs to work on but HEY its my first.
Next one I will use toning after printing.
Hello, like many of you I joined this group to learn more about Coffee Devleopers. So I have no clue about coffee developers. Do you use coffee to develop the film, the paper or both? I read all the posts but still am confused, I thought coffee was only used as a toner.
I use a coffee formula to develop the paper prints, though it seems most people prefer to use it on their film. There are lots of recipes out there. Not to indulge in shameless self promotion, but I have an article on my experiments here: http://tomoverton.images.googlepages.com/caffenol (I do have an ulterior motive here... I'd love to see a lot more people printing with coffee recipes, it's kind of lonely out here.)
Hey I looked at your website and it has good info, but I'm mixing up a batch and was wondering what temp do you develop at? Because you have to get hot water for the coffee to dissolve and hot water and paper don't usually mix. Also is there a difference between washing soda and baking soda?
I generally mix my recipe in warm water, and let it sit for a short while. Once you pour it in the tray, it comes down to room temperature fairly quickly. The truth be known, I don't always fret much about how consistent my mixing is; you can get some really interesting effects with lumpy chems.
Just put in a few pics of the snow developed with coffee and selenium toned also. I just have to experiment some more to get the super contast out of the dev.
I don't think you're going to have that much control over contrast with coffee developers without going the extra steps of bleaching and toning. (which I'd really like to learn more about)
I just added a picture to the gallery, Pelee Drive IR Coffee. The title kind of says it all. Maco 820 Aura, split grade coffee print. I'm quite pleased with this print.
I shot a few pics on a foggy night and it turned out not bad so I had a brain wave. Use warm tone paper with the coffee developer. As you can see the plan did not work as well as I thought. (message to self : DO NOT use warm tone paper)
I usually always try to push the envelope to see what will happen. Next time maybe cool tone paper
Oh well somebody had to try.
That is very interesting, to say the least... I was just about to print some shots on warmtone sometime in the next couple of nights. (I'll probably end up giving it a shot anyway, as I'm practially out of my regular cool tone paper)
Still, I'm liking your prints. I'm waiting for someone to give me some kind of idea of the archival qualities of coffee prints. My first prints are nearly two years old, and they look as good today as the day I printed them.
[EDIT] It just occurred to me.. are you using RC or FB papers? I have yet to try coffee prints on FB papers. I will try this soon enough as well. (I have the urge to experiment)
I was using RC paper. When i edited the brown tone pic (digitally) pic it almost looked 3 dimentional. I am definitly going to have another go at this (coffee and warm tone paper) I was really surprized on the out come of it but I guess experimenting chemically you never know what to expect. (Late 60's and acid) But thats another story. Let me know how the cool tone paper coffee combo work.
If you think that looks like acid, check this out. http://tomoverton.images.googlepages...full;init:.jpg
I think I'll be trying some WT myself soon. (Why do I hear someone saying, "don't touch the brown stuff"?) And I might even give FB a shot as well. (I have a feeling that won't be as successful, though if it is, it would be wonderful.)
One thing about this, you never know what is going to come out. I thought it would turn out a really nice brown tone with warm tone but NOOOO ! I see we don't have ANY hard and fast rules about this process so I guess it is hang on and hope for the best !! My 645 just came out of the shop so 120 in COFFEE ! Check out my Flickr site for the edited view.
I'm a happy man. Sitting here drinking a coffee beer... just finished printing a lovely shot from Chicago in coffee developer on Ilford Warmtone RC and Ilford FB papers. I did have my doubts with the FB paper... lacking the integral developer that many RC papers have, I wondered my coffee fomula had enough juice to coax the latent image out of the emulsion. It took quite awhile... two full minutes before there was even a trace of an image, five to look close to my target, and seven until it looked complete. In the end, the image came out almost the way I wanted. My test print was pretty drab, so my final print was done with a #5 contrast filter. (by the way, the WT RC came out quite nice without much tweaking) Now that I've got a couple under my belt, I can fine tune the process and improve the softer details which I lost in the hard contrast FB print.
I'm a happy man.
Good morning, Tom;
You mentioned the quote; "Don't touch the brown stuff!." Isn't coffee normally brown? Maybe a lighter tan color if you put cream in it, but it is still brown.
Enjoy; Ralph Javins
still living out here in Latte Land