Just picked up another last night. It is the Auto Tamron 28mm f/2.8. From what I have read they are a fantastic lens around f/5.6. It is the only Tamron prime I have. I have been quite happy with their BBAR zoom lenses. It is now on my EOS 3 ready for the test.
It may be my turn. Dances With Clouds up on Vancouver Island has a new lens. I have some new "stuff" also.
This last weekend was the time for a gathering of people with an interest in things other than photography. In fact, photography is only remotely related to this activity. However, in among all of the things there, one couple had brought two camera bags and the bags were there along with all of the other things they wanted to sell. Having an interest in both of the subjects is not a good thing. I bought both of the bags, and they gave me a full 1/3 discount.
In among the things in the bags were a Japanese made Chinon AM-3 (not made in China) along with 3 lenses with M42 mount. An Auto CHINON 55/1.7 (with an aperture problem), an AUTO CHINON 35/2.8, and a Vivitar Series One 70-210mm f:3.5 zoom lens with the M42 mount. So the M42 Stuff is still growing.
And that Vivitar Series One 70-210mm f:3.5 zoom lens with the M42 mount means that now I have that same lens made by Kino Precision in all four of the camera mounts that I normally use; Canon FL-FD, Minolta SR, Nikon F nAI, and M42.
Enjoy; Ralph, Latte Land, Washington
Hi all -- I posted the story about my latest FREE PENTAX GiFT in 'Spotmatics Anonymous' Group but the LENSES which came with it were : 28mm f3.5 SMC Takumar. 50mm f1.4 SMC Takumar ( YES !! the RADIO-ACTIVE one !) , 150m f4 SMC Takumar -- I have done some tests also using my own 1970's 50mm f4 SMC Macro-Takumar and posted on here.
Good morning, Pete;
I just lost my entire response written for your message. Let me see if I can remember this again.
The TAKUMAR 50/1.4 SMC lens is indeed a nice lens. Yes, it does have a glass element containing Thorium or Lanthanum, usually in one of the rear lens groups. The level of any ionizing radiation is rather low, and it takes a really good Geiger counter to detect it. A scintillation counter will be better. Please keep in mind that if this were really a problem, then we would also have fogged areas or frames on our rolls of film that are exposed to this radiation much longer than we are while holding the camera. That Thorium or Lanthanum was used in that glass element to get the index of refraction needed to make the lens design work in the way that they wanted to get the performance desired. My early Minolta ROKKOR 58/1.4 lenses are built in the same way.
One nice thing about them is that if you let them sit long enough, they will develop a nice yellow coloration that will begin to act like a built-in K2 yellow filter for black and white film.
If you do not want it to do that, you can reverse it just by putting the lens in a south facing window with the lens tilted up to catch the sunlight and let it pass through the lens for a few days, and the UV light in that sunlight will restore that glass element to its crystal clear transparency. What is often considered to be a fault is easily corrected and fully restored to original performance.
By the way, a radiation dosimeter is a device a person wears that contains a small strip of film, and when that film is taken out and developed, then it is examined for its density, and a darker density is an indication of a higher accumulation of that radiation.
Latte Land, Washington
Good Evening Ralph : Yes, I had read about leaving the yellowed lens in the sun and did that on our very last really 'sunny' day here and it had almost cleared but now is the Autumn upon us and the sun has lost it's strength.