I just joined this group but as a new RZ owner I was a bit hesitant because of the title of the group only refers to RBs. The content seems to cover both and was wondering if the name could be changed to reflect this. Just a suggestion. Nevermind, I see that there is a clarification of subject matter listed once you are in the group forum.
I'm an ecstatic *new* RB67 Pro-S owner - sort of...!!!!
I bought the body and WLF (EX cond.) from KEH and need to start putting away my pennies for backs and lenses, but i'm not deterred!!!!! An APUG buddy has one and from the 1st time i held it (127mm lens) and used the bellows it was all over. I've held out for almost 2 years and picked up an Autocord just to get my feet wet, but that huge RB just kept beckoning to me. I can hardly wait to get backs and lens(es) to really start, but i'm glacially patient and i've been waiting this long so a little longer won't hurt.
I really enjoy landscape photography (but need to stick to using roll film). I've agonized over which wide-angle (50mm or 65mm), but really like the 35mm focal-length on 35mm format so the 65mm in 6x7 *should* take care of me. I also like my friends 127mm which seems great for general use. Maybe one day a 180mm for portraiture.... who knows?!?
Anyway, i'm stoked and love reading about/learning from all you RB users!!!
This is simply the funnest most exciting camera I have ever used, and it forces me to think about composition, depth of field via the Preview switch, and settling in to the image I want to take home. This camera is a point and think instead of a point and shoot.
My goal is to photograph develop and print my own personal imagery for as long as I can. Too much is missed and glossed over using a nearly automated digital camera, its just nice to slow down and think instead of puch buttons through a menu and ape (Grope) for the results.
I acquired an RB 67 Pro-S set with 90mm lens and 3 6x4.5 film backs in rough but useable condition for 200.00 via E-bay in December of 2009 after using digital Point and shoot cameras daily for 5 years (mostly underwater in housings freediving while living on an island) (you read that correctly I took a huge leap into the past, while emerging form the ocean happily for the sake of image quality and the learning process that I like to think of as an evolution of thought and practice), and have since run about 6 rolls of Ilford Delta BW through the RB, I meter with a Zone VI modified Soligor and am ambitiously learning the Zone system.
I have yet to use my polaroid film pack back (Fuji FP-100b and 100C is in the near future via Online purchase- though ironically Pictureline and Inkly's in SLC both swear that no one makes instant film anymore; is this misinformation common at Pro-photography places or has the digital minset infected them? Its sort of like saying Fuji no longer exists isnt it),
I am now acquiring items to build up the kit for creative landscape photography in Utah.
Unfortunately I have yet to see my 6X7 Negs come out of development, all my previous film imagery was with the 6x4.5 backs but I keep hearing how the difference in quality and image size is astounding, My Omega B600 may be too small for the 6X7 negs (Can it be modified to print from 6X7 negs?)
But I have some questions...
I cant stop buying accessories for the RB...Is this typical or just an ancient ponzi scheme cooked up by Mamiya that has hooked me deep?...It seems you can never have too many backs and accessories, and since they are all so cheap (just won three backs without darkslides for 19 bucks on ebay one 6x4.5 and two 6x7 120 backs (not so easy to come by usually you only find 220 backs, the 6x7's are the reason I bid in the first place)
Ironically people typically only bid for complete backs on E-Bay, but I enthusiastically repair my own foam and use the darkslides from other backs.
so now I have a Brace of backs to repair and use/abuse and hide from the spouse, I think the total is up to 9 backs, another back dilemma is If I want to use BW instant film and then switch to Color before the pack is exhausted I will most likely have to justify a second Instant film back! sheesh does this ever end?
I am now looking at focusing screens.
What focusing screen would be best for landscape and which would be best for portraiture? should I get a Beattie Grid focusing screen for landscape? or can I do without the grid and just get a split focusing screen or a crosshair? and what Prizm finder would best be used? the Type 2 (heavy metal) or Type 3 (plastic one)? for when I want to shoot eyelevel because my neck doesnt do circus tricks above shoulder high on a tripod so I am limited to below the shoulders tripod work for now using a stepstool (only have a WLF). Does anyone draw out divided screens such as with 1/3 grid only putting the intersections of the zones as a compositional aid? I just did this last night on an old focusing screen for fun.
This MF system seems limitless in the potential it has to become an expressive tool. too bad Mamiya Didnt make a moveable front standard version of the RB so It could function like the Fujifilm GX 680 (seems to be the only Medium format camera capable of tilt shift with every lens? would Macro Tilt have any benefit?)
Because of this dilemma I am eyeing Toyo and Omega View bodies to rig with the RB lenses and backs to get Tilt-Shift cheaper than with a 75mm TS lens alone in an SD body and to be able to do 4x5 format in the not too distant future! is Mamiya RB a bridge camera to LF? I believe it is.
Has anyone else here done the View camera -> Mamiya RB 67 lens/back conversion? I would love to hear about your experiences! Is it worth the resulting imagery or is it just an excuse to get a View body and jump to LF?
I doubt that most of the RB lenses have enough coverage to give you much "movement" like a view camera.
I, too, have been bitten by the RB 67 bug. Just received my first two rolls back from the lab and all I can say is, "WOW!" After trading all of my Mamiya 645 gear several years ago to join the digital revolution I had forgotten how nice and sharp an image can be. Problem is, I want more...! Seems like I'm now constantly scouring KEH and fleabay for any new listings. My name is Jeff and I'm an RB-holic!
on 50mm Sekor C lens for RB; Re floating element use.
The front floating element adjustment functions similarly to the Distance DOF calculator does on the 90mm, only you set the DOF where you want the most clarity/sharpness. For example if you are using F.22 your DOF would be indicated between the 22's on the ring, then you would decide where you want your DOF to be sharp, all the way to Infinity? or in the Foreground near 3 meters? or some combination with a tradeoff for most or nearly all of the image? Apparently this simple step can greatly improve your edge sharpness especially with a tripod! I have yet to proof 6x7 negs from this 50mm C lens but I am excited for the results.
after looking at 6x4.5 negs I can say that the extra attention to the floating focus ring is well worth the effort!
Fuji Velvia 100 overexposed in 6x4.5 format.