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Minolta Manual Focus (MMF)

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  1. wayne naughton
    if you are really worried about batteries i guess you could use a hotshoe meter. anyone have any experience with one?

    w
  2. minoltax570srt202
    minoltax570srt202
    can i just say something about my minolta cameras? first, ive been using an x570 for about a year now and have loved using it. recently i got an srt202 and have been "trying it out". the srt is an AMAZING camera! in the short time i have had it, i have taken some of my best photographs! it is different than my x570 in that it is heavier, slower, has a very long wind stroke, and has a much dimmer viewfinder. but somehow i am able to utilize it more efficiently. it does exactly what i want it to with no surprises or guesses.

    also, i want to praise the "cheap" md 135mm f/2.8 (the latest one with the aperture lock). this cheap little lens blows me away every time i look at my b&w film scans taken with it. this lens is easy to focus and is absolutely RAZOR sharp at f/2.8. it is a better overall lens than my 85mm f/2 but costs about 1/3 as much. how has this lens flown under the radar for so long? i never hear anyone talking about it nor have i ever seen a review of it. i think it should be raised to cult status like some other minolta lenses!! if you like to shoot portraits, you need to get this lens, they are only about $85.

    thanks for letting me share my enthusiasm, im just having a blast kicking @ss with this "old" and "cheap" equipment.

    thanks,

    andy
  3. Terry Again
    Terry Again
    Hi All, Can anyone clue me in to what all flashes I can use with my cold shoe SRT 100? Minolta and otherwise? I know to watch for a cord with it but have seen that twice so far. My guess is grab them when I can? I'm looking to do indoor shots hopefully without red eye?
    Thanks,
    Terry
  4. wayne naughton
    wayne naughton
    ask in one of the forums and you should get a quick reply, terry. to avoid redeye you'll have to get a bracket or get a flash that tilts and swivels and bounce the light off the ceiling or wall. you could also get hold of something like a metz 45ct1 which is most probably as powerful as you'll ever need. i don't know what sync sockets your camera has....you might have to get hold of a manual
  5. ARPross
    ARPross
    Hi All,

    I have a xd-5 that I have loved for quite a while. I don't use it as much as I could but love the feel of it in my hands. I'm so happy to find this group and will keep my eye on it. Who knows, I'll probably end up using this camera more!
  6. Chaplain Jeff
    Chaplain Jeff
    Hey Wayne,

    Regarding experience w/ mounted meters:

    I have a Voightlander I light meter I bought from Dave S. about three years ago. It is VERY accurate. I usually use Velvia in my M3 and have yet to have an improperly exposed shot. Worth what I paid - definately.

    That said, my Mary Elizabeth has a cheap, no name selenium meter in the cold shoe on her Minolta A2 (wanted an RF "like dad's") and a cheap selenium hand-held and her images - although with basic Kodak films which give you some leeway - are nearly always spot-on as well.

    Jeff M
  7. Ralph Javins
    Ralph Javins
    Good morning, Terry Again;

    Since you asked here, I will answer here.

    You can use any electronic strobe flash unit that has a "PC" connecting cable with your Minolta SR-T 100. You plug the "PC" cord into the "X Sync" socket on the SR-T 100 and set the shutter speed dial to the red 1/60th of a second setting. While not truly required with the electro-mechanical flash contacts of the SR-T 100, the Wien "SafeSync" will prolong the life of the contacts if the flash that you choose is one of the high voltage sync system types. As mentioned, the Wien "SafeSync" is not truly required in your case.

    For selection of an electronic strobe flash unit, a nice convenience is one of the "automatic" models with "thyristor control." This electronic system built into the flash allows the flash itself to look at the subject being photographed and measure the light illuminating the subject. When it has determined that enough light for your film has been achieved, it shuts off the light circuit of the flash unit. Usually you will see a small round port on the front of the flash unit below the flash tube window. The light sensor will be inside that small round port and should be pointed at the subject. You do not need to use a Minolta flash unit. You can also use one by Vivitar, Sunpak, Braun, Metz, and many others; even Nikon and Canon.

    If you choose a unit without automatic control, you will need to use the "Guide Number" and flash-to-subject distance to calculate what lens opening you should set on the lens for that subject distance.

    A flash unit that has a head that tilts and swivels is really helpful with bouncing the light off a ceiling or wall.

    Regarding "red eye," Wayne Naughton has written of the need to get the flash off the camera, usually with a flash bracket. Just a foot or so will be enough. Yes, it does make the package bigger and probably heavier. For my work, I like the Custom Brackets rotating flash brackets that allow me to change easily from "landscape" to "portrait" while keeping the flash above the lens at all times.

    For further discussion of multiple flash setups and off-camera flash, perhaps those questions could go to the Lighting Forum.

    Enjoy; Ralph Javins
  8. wayne naughton
    wayne naughton
    hi Jeff, i just bought a fuji GSW690II (6x9)....that's the reason i had been asking around about light meters and the voigtlander seems to be getting the votes. the fuji's pretty light for such a big neg and i reckon you could easily use it h/h...

    wayne
  9. B&Jdude
    B&Jdude
    Man, was I surprised to see this Forum rearranged with the reply box at the bottom of the page & the most recent posts at the top. Also when I clicked the GROUPS button up in the banner, it used to show the groups that I'm in at the top. Now I have to do a search for them.

    Is APUG in the middle of a software update or reorganization?
  10. wayne naughton
    wayne naughton
    more like a software klutz than anything....i'm confused
  11. B&Jdude
    B&Jdude
    Oh, well, it looks like the software klutz now rearranged the posts so that the most recent ones are at the bottom near the Reply box.

    Now if they would just do like they used to and show the groups that we are members of when we first get into the Groups section.

    Smiff
  12. Chaplain Jeff
    Chaplain Jeff
    Terry,

    A good flash that will avoid redeye with your SRT is the Metz 45CT-1 (or 45CL-1). Great flash that can be had used for $100 or less - at least that was the case the last time I priced one (few years back).

    It's what I shot with in college and grad school when working for FLASH Photography in Dallas - shooting formal society events. It's a basic flash with tons of power. You don't want to hook it up to your more "modern" bodies though - the voltage it shoots through the camera through the PC jack is apparently 4 to 10 times what it takes to melt the circuitboards in the newer cameras.

    (As a point of information - does anyone know why we're still posting in the original "WELCOME" post instead of creating new ones for each of these discussions? It's terribly confusing to us West Texas types!)
  13. Ralph Javins
    Ralph Javins
    Good morning, Chaplain Jeff;

    On the opening page for this group, right under the link to this discussion series, is a place with a title something like; "Post New Discussion." I think we can start new topics there.

    The goal may have been to make the social groups more like the other forums. However, a few things did not seem to make the transition. For example, we need to open the discussion thread, then scroll all the way down to the bottom of the first page of messages to find the little row with the page list just above the Reply Box to then go to the the latest messages in the series. In the Forums, you have the choice of a page list at both the top and the bottom of the page. In the Forums, you do not need to scroll all the way down to the bottom of the page to then go the most recent message posted.

    There does seem to be a few quirks. Not all of the unhappiness is just from lack of familiarity. The new format does have a few shortcomings.

    Ralph Javins
  14. Ralph Javins
    Ralph Javins
    Furthermore, we are also limited to a maximum of 1000 characters (letters, numbers, punctuation marks, spaces, et cetera) per message. I was ordered to readjust my last message from 1006 to 1000 characters. I did. I dropped my customary closing.

    Enjoy; Ralph Javins
  15. drazak
    drazak
    Hey guys;

    I haven't posted in the MMF group for a bit, but regardless, I was wondering if anyone knew of a place to find cheap rokkor lenses without using paypal (which puts ebay out of the question)? I might be acquiring an XK from someone on apug, and I was wondering if anyone knew where I could find some of the other prisms/focusing screens for it? I'm looking for a 28/2.8 or faster, and anything 135 or over in focal length that's f/3.5 or faster (for shooting sports this summer).

    Ben
  16. Ralph Javins
    Ralph Javins
    Good morning, Ben;

    I recognize the problem you described. There are several possible sources. KEH (www.keh.com), Adorama (www.adorama.com), B & H (www.bhphotovideo.com), and others. I have used KEH many times.

    The difficulty with e-Bay and people who do not have credit cards is well known. The main point seems to be that the e-Bay people get their cut from PayPal immediately. I have been able to make special arrangements with some sellers, but it is less convenient than it was in the past. That was my main source for the really older Minolta stuff. Oh, well.

    Enjoy; Ralph Javins
  17. Johs
    Johs
    Hi All, I am from Norway and I have a couple of SRTs, an X-700(x5) and SR7, XE1, SRT Super, SRT100 ( 55mm/1,9), XG9, X-7, XD7, XD-s!!!, X-500, X-600!!!,

    16 mm, 17 mm, 21 mm, , 28 mm, 35 mm, 45 mm, 50 mm, 55 mm/1,9 , 58 mm/1,2/1,4, 85 mm /2, 100 mm, 135 mm, 200 mm 250 mm, 300 mm, APO400mm/5,6 and 500 mm. 300S+300L. 50+100mm +135mm Macro.

    Favorites are XG9, 21/2,8, 58/1.2, 135/2,8 and 250/300mm/4,5. ( cle and M4P+ 2X R6 and SL2 )
    I use them all
    Johannes
  18. Ralph Javins
    Ralph Javins
    Good morning, Johannes;

    Welcome to the Minolta Manual Focus group. Your Minolta collection is quite similar to mine, although I do have a few more bodies in the older SR series. Your lenses are surprisingly similar to mine. Strangely enough, I have the 58 mm F 1.2 in a couple of samples, but I find that I am using the old 58 mm f 1.4 more often. Perhaps something related to my starting out with that lens in the original AUTO ROKKOR-PF form. If I do know that I will be shooting in low light, I do put on a 58 mm f 1.2 because of the improved focusing capability in low light. I still like the older ROKKOR glass.

    Enjoy; Ralph Javins
  19. Johs
    Johs
    Hello, Ralph and other Minolta users.
    My problem is that I’m not born With a copy of Donald Duck in my hand. Therefore, I’m not able to read or write English very well. It will take me some time to answer, as I can’t write Norwegian in this group and have to get help with my English. I have been a Minolta mf user since I started in 1968, and lived* with those cameras until I bought my first (M4 in 1975) CLE and Leica M4P in 1983 ( Novoflex adapter Minolta Rokkor to Leica M). My Leica M collection has since been growing steadily (15mm to 400 Telyt - 21 different lenses+ Komura 39mm/M telemore95 2X). I have also converted a Visoflex 2 to take Hasselblad lenses, and with adapters for Linhof, Sinar and Chamonix view cameras. Imagine any of those view cameras mounted with a Minolta CLE/Leica M, or Minolta MC/MD /Leica R/ Hasselblad. The only drawback with Minolta SLR’s is the lack of spot metering in the Minolta XE-(7) and the XD-s. If they had, I wouldn’t have had to buy* Leica R (6 bodies and 21, 24, 28, 35, 50, 60, 90, 135, 200, 400 and 50/60Distagon / 80Planar/150Sonnar and Tessar 500 for Hasselblad).

    I asked at the Leica factory if they could convert my XE1 to spot metering. But they no longer had a friendly relationship to Minolta. Leica R are fine cameras, but I prefer to get my hands on my Minoltas. When* I’m out taking pictures with my large format or medium format cameras, I can always carry a Minolta MC/MD(or Leica R/M) body for mounting with adapter. That way I can keep the weight down to 30-35 kilo’s.
    *
    “I still like the older ROKKOR glass.”
    I can very well understand why AUTO ROKKER-PF are valuable. They are simply optical prescission instruments with the right colour in the glass. I have 58/1,4 and I love it.
    Johannes

    I have a darkrom: (Analogt m°rkerom) http://www.farrisfotoklubb.com/


    http://www.chamonixviewcamera.com/cameras.html

    ps. Agfa Logo is back!!
    Comeback der AGFA-Raute
    http://www.aphog.de/index.php?option...tpage&Itemid=1
  20. uccemebug
    uccemebug
    Hello, new member here. I'm a Canadian living in Tokyo, and I've been shooting with Minolta gear amongst others since my dad handed down an SRT-101 in 1990. I've got two XD's, two X-700's (one's on semi-permanent loan to a friend), and I've pared my lens collection back to 20mm/2.8, 35mm/2.8 (Celtic), 50mm/1.7, 85mm/2, 100m/2 (disused), 35-70/3.5 (on loan to a friend), and a 70-210mm (disused). My travel kit is the 20,50,85 combo.

    Thanks for putting together a manual Minolta group!
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