This past weekend was spent at Point Reyes National seashore in California, with a unsceduled jaunt to the Palace of Fine Arts in San Francisco.
While shooting the beached fishing boat as well as other subjects, my X-700 meter's over/under range indicators kept flashing. I had never seen or experienced this behavior before. It took me several hours later to figure out what the camera was saying to me. Apparently, due to certain light conditions with certain films, you can exceed the meters range to determine proper exposure. I finally figured out that the meter was telling me to stop down to a smaller aperture, or use a ND filter to reduce the amount of light.
I was shooting with HP5+ using a 50-135 f3.5 Rokkor lens.
I was actually trying to take shots for a shallow depth of field assignment, so stopping down to me would have defeated the purpose.
Has anyone had a similar experience.
Yes, my X-700's will exhibit the same sort of behavior in the summer on the beach, or with snow in the winter. If I am carrying fast film in the camera, there are limitations to just how fast the shutter can go. When this comes up, the neutral density filters come out.
Enjoy; Ralph Javins, Latte Land, Washington
While the X 700 is a wonderful camera it has by modern and even standards of the time a limited shutter speed range of 1 to 1/1000, so as already mentioned one really should carry ND filters if your going likely be in your situation.
Since I'm an old fart just getting back into film use, and I didn't have much experience back when I was using film (Canonet QL17 GIII) for general snap shot of family and some outdoor use, I'm needing to ask what would for most seem a "dah" question, but here goes... I have a rotating PL filter made by Minolta; can this be uses as an ND filter, and if not, what's the difference?
Nevermind, I answered the question after reading about it.
Good morning, Craig;
Welcome back to film, and I will answer the question anyway for other people who may be reading this thread also.
Yup, Neutral Density filters do a nice job for reducing the amount of light in very bright conditions (light sand at the beach, or on snow) and you can get them in one, two, three, four, six, eight, ten, and even more stops reduction, if you do not mind paying a bit more for a special filter (think solar eclipse or sun spot photography) and waiting a while for it to get here. They do not affect the color of the scene being photographed; they just reduce the light.
Polarizing filters are a little different. Yes, you can use them as Neutral Density filters also; with their common filter factor of 2.5, you just open up about one full stop and you are right there. But they can do other things also, especially with color film. One obvious application is reducing or eliminating unwanted reflections from windows, water, and other non-metallic surfaces. Rotate the filter to the minimum reflection and take your photograph, in most applications. They can also be used to bring out a blue sky and enhance the contrast between the sky and clouds. They are really useful filters. Normally with the sun at an angle between you and the scene, rotate the filter to the deepest and darkest sky and you will probably find that any index mark on the polarizing filter rotatable rim is pointed at the sun. For our application with film, most likely we will be using a manually focusing lens. The simple linear polarizing filters work fine, and they are cheaper. However, if you are using any automatic focusing lenses or camera systems, then consider the more modern circular polarizing filters. The phase detection systems of most autofocusing cameras will be much happier.
Latte Land, Washington