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Harman Direct Positive paper

  1. PLynch
    Recently I have started photographing Harman Direct Positive paper. I do like it. I would like to find a way to reduce the contrast a bit. If anyone has ideas please post them. The pink surface threw me off at first. It goes away with fixing and you won't even see unless you have the paper in light. I do use a red safelight bright enough to see what I am doing and have notice no negative effect. Anyone else using this positive paper or anything like it?
  2. gbmcinephoto
    gbmcinephoto
    I'm also VERY interested in using this paper for pinhole work. I'm preparing to teach a class of youngsters about pinhole photography and this would be great! Is there specific chemistry you're using for this?
  3. PLynch
    PLynch
    I am using Ilford warm tone developer, Ilfostop, and Ilford Rapid Fixer. I also use the Harman seleniun toner. Although I don't recommend using the toner with the kids. I do think using the positive paper is an excellent idea. They will probably get a thrill out of the images being reversed.

    I sometimes tray develop and sometimes use 4x5 film tanks. My development time is typically between 1.5-3 minutes. I think my new standard time for using the tank will be 1.5 minutes. I may even cut back on that a bit. I do a fair amount of agitation with either method.
  4. gbmcinephoto
    gbmcinephoto
    Thanks so much!
    i agree with not using the selenium with the kids.

    I'll be getting some of this paper soon and will start some tests in the cameras we'll be using.
  5. pdjr1991
    pdjr1991
    Fotokemika is also making black and white positive paper. I have the paper coming in this week.
  6. PLynch
    PLynch
    I think it will be great working with kids using this paper. Should be a very positive experience with nothing negative involved :})

    I have not heard of Fotokemika. I will take a look.
  7. pdjr1991
    pdjr1991
    Im a soon to be college student that started a darkroom my junior year in high school. Wish we had this instead of doing negative pinholes. this is a great way to learn with my crown graphics also. I have that Fotokemika Efke Positive paper coming in on Saturday. Maybe i'll do a review.
  8. PLynch
    PLynch
    I would like to see a few sample images from the Efke paper. I like the Harman very much and am getting great results from it. Can you get the Efke as a fibre paper or just RC? I hope you can post some of your images.
  9. pdjr1991
    pdjr1991
    The paper i recieved was rc and only in matte. I ordered it on freestyle. by the way lynch, could you post a discussion of what to expect from the paper? Im still confused about it. It said it was redlight safe and i thought it would be fine when i was cutting it. But all my prints came out black including a not exposed piece. this got me to wonder, since its positive does it mean it turns black then white? also what is and average exposure for the positive paper. Id really apprieciate your help. thanks!
  10. PLynch
    PLynch
    If you were to look at the paper under normal light it would appear pink. So if you see that it's normal. This goes away in the fixer or at least the wash.

    The unexposed areas such as where the film holder covers the paper will process black. The longer you expose the paper the brighter it gets. It is a little harder to think things through if you have been working with negatives all your life. For example "My print is to dark" You didn't over expose it. It's under exposed.

    For a safelight I use this one and have had great luck. I even load my with it on.

    It is worth mention that I have painted the bottom and about a third of the way up it black. There are do direct rays coming from the bulb to the paper. I am not sure this was necessary but I know I did not need as much light as I was getting.

    The images on this paper are very contrasty. So watch your shadow areas. They may go totally black on you. If you are photographing anything toward the red end of the spectrum it will stay dark in the final image. For example many of the rocks I photograph at the shore have an orange color to them. Sort of like an amber safelight to the paper. So they tend to photograph a bit dark. Keep an eye on your lighting and subject and you can capture a nice tonal range.

    I use all Ilford Chemistry. The paper seems to develop in about a minute and I am down to 1.5 for my time if I tank process. Sometimes I use these tanks. I have three and set up my chemistry in each one. I also tray develop in 5x7 trays sometimes.

    I hope this helps a bit. I will be happy to answer any other questions I can. This is still new to me but so far I am very happy with the results.
  11. pdjr1991
    pdjr1991
    That is what i thought. So it does go from black to "white" . Freestyle confirms that they are very contrasty but says that different dilutions will affect it. It does make sense that you used ilford chemestry for Harmon paper (same company). We should include a discussion section on where we can get the paper. I got the Efke from freestyles and its where i order all my darkrooms stuff. I feel like they focus more on darkroom and traditional photography more than b&h.
  12. pdjr1991
    pdjr1991
    Correction, it is Kentmere not Ilford. I do not know if it is the same Harmon company or not. Sorry for the confusion
  13. PLynch
    PLynch
    You can order the paper from here.
    http://www.harmanexpress.net

    I find it interesting that only the fibre comes in the size that will fit 4x5 film holders.
  14. pdjr1991
    pdjr1991
    Thanks and i was right about Harman and Ilford. Harmon also does the Kentmere line. i do not know if they are the same company but they are spelled differently.
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