POLL==Are you using a Pyro developer? Which one?
OK, I guess I should start.
Both in Jobo.
I use three types depending of what I'm photographing.
First is my do all standard, WD2D+. I like its finer results I get.
Second is PMK. I find that this is a bit rough for me but it does a good job. It's my go to when I have a wide range of subjects and lighting situations.
Third, for my Jobo tank I use Rollo-pyro.
Right now I am very seriously considering doing B/W film photography again since I still have all of my darkroom equipment from a prior era.
I concocted my own pyro formula way-back-when to tame the highlights of the then-new T-MAX films, and will likely resurrect it. Developing times were very long, 21 minutes with TMY and 22 minutes with TMX, and I pulled the film speed to ASA (OOPS- EI!) 250/64 respectively. It has long puzzled me why the T-MAX 100 film required a longer development time...
Even though it has been a great long while since I used it, I maintain that pyro has no equal when it comes to gradation. It is phenomenal.
I also used catechol with sodium carbonate and no sulfite but that's another discussion.
I use Pyrocat MC in glycol for developing all formats : 120, 4x5, 5x7, 4x10 and 5x12. My standard films are HP5+ and FP4+ for large format and Kodak TMAX 400 in 120.
I develop LF sheets by inspection.
Pyrocat HD in a Jobo CPP2+ for all large format sizes. Same, in stainless tanks for 35mm and medium format.
Pyrocat HD with Fuji Acros 100. Combined with the Mamiya lenses, it simply is unbeatable IMHO.
I'm using ABC Pyro plus, just for the convenience of not having to mess with pyro. I shoot 8x10 and 4x5 and mix my own other chemicals.
Am using Pyrocat-HD [1:1:100] for tray processing FP4 & HP5.
ABC Pyro 1+1+1+7 or 1+1+1+11 with TXP 8x10" film (tray processing) - Palladium/Platinum contact prints
Abc pyro 1+1+1+7 for tray processing Fp4+ & Hp5+
Hello, interested in the land of Pyro developers, BUT have never tried it!
Problem: nobody in Sweden is selling those developers you all are talking about; and due to certain legislations or (?), those abroad won't ship.
Thus have to try to get the raw chemicals and to the mixing myself.
Bought Gordon Hutchings's "The book of Pyro"; understood that pyrogallol isn't a very healthy stuff to deal with !; though, I have now, I think, found a way to get hold on raw pyrogallol, but have hesitated due to Hutchings's information of what problematic stuff that is.
(i) Would prefer using commercial products, they also seem to contain some (secret) stuff that makes them better than Hutchings's PMK-formula.
(ii) Since I like printing on VC papers, have never really got proper understanding about how the pyro stain, which has a certain colour (brow-yellow..?) as far as I undertand, works with VC papers. The market of interesting graded papers, compared to VC papers, seems to be more limited. Do you all "PYRO-people" print on graded papers (Lodima?) ? Or, no problems with VC papers?
Still interested in the stuff, so I follow this group; though can't at the moment contribute with more than questions!
Maybe time to refresh this discussion? In recent years there seems to have been more interest in pyro developers, although a lot of people are still using the old favourites like D76, D23, Rodinal (R09) etc (with good reason). I started using ABC pyro and Kodak D7 many years ago, then switched to PMK in about 1998, I think. PMK is still my developer of choice. I may try Pyrocat HD some day, as it seems to have a good reputation.
As to your question, Bertil, which I trust you've found an answer to by now, I've used VC papers with pyro negs without any problems. No doubt the colour of the stain has a slight effect on coloured printing light, but in practice it's minimal, because we still print for contrast and density by inspection, which takes care of any small effect of negative colour. Don't forget, all developers have some effect on negative colour.
Many thanks Barry for your reply to my question (some 3 years ago!). Since many Apugers do use Pyro developers and often seem to print on VC paper my conclusion was that the problem wasn't very serious. But again, many thanks for your answer! /Bertil
Pyrocat MC in glycol with Hawkeye surveillance, & Rollei Retro 80s as a new venture. I use a bit of Imagelink HQ in sub-mini and am hopeful that it will render more 'printable' images than what I've been using. For that 1:1:250 has been suggested.