I was lucky the guy had it listed under a wrong title, "A job lot of 30 film spools'
here is the item- 120283506679 I got it for £17.50 (my memory thought cheaper) the 20 Agfapan 100 were outdated by 2004 I think but seem OK and were shrink wrapped & supposedly frozen.
I'm a lucky guy :-)
Speaking of film deals, I'm down to my last 6 rolls of Agfa Optima. (the film I used in my last couple of postings) I bought 20 rolls for $20 last year. A great deal and a wonderful film. I'm at the point I'm getting a little selective about when I break it out. With careful hoarding, It will last a couple of years.
Me, I'm a lucky guy too. :-)
I've been delighted with TMAX 400, and developed the first of my Type 2 film a few nights ago - it's now in for printing at my local shop. Now, I'm using DD-X all the time [instead of Rodinal]. The Type 2 TMAX is exposed at EI 1600, and I'm keen to see how it looks. Over the past 2 years, I've been experimenting with Delta 100, Acros, and FP4+. TMAX 400 might do everything for me; EI 400 in summer, EI 1600 in winter.
I have a Rollei 2.8 Planar which takes 120 film. Can I use 220 in it even thought the film counter only goes up to 12.
Jeff, when you come to frame 12 the camera will just roll through the rest of the film without stopping. If you have some 220 film that is going to go to waste, what you can do is once the counter gets to 12 you can guesstimate how far to crank the film to do another exposure. The shutter will still work and the pressure plate is still in place so it is only the spacing you are worrying about and keeping track of how many pictures you took.
It is better than throwing the film out.
Also since the camera senses film automatically I would think frame 1 would still be at the beginning.
Thanks Dennis, I think I'm going to try that.
I am not sure about whether you can
run 220 film through a 120 Rolleiflex.
220 film lacks the paper backing of
120 film and the lack of the backing
might affect frame spacing. Or might
There is no adjustment for the pressure plate or for the spacing. When you get a 120/220 switch it only resets the counter. So you go from 120 film to 220 film anytime with no adjustment. I learned the trick of guesstimating the spacing with my 12/24 camera. If you accidentally bump the switch half way and don't check it and start up a new 220 or 120 roll, the camera will run the film right through and never stop at frame one. So once you have done that and finished with your loud rude swearing about it you can shoot some frames without the help of a counter. Dennis
OK so I ran test to see if you can shoot 220 film with the Rolleiflex set for 120 film. And you can. I put my 2.8F on a tripod and focused on some lace curtains and left the camera set for 120 though I put in a roll of 220 TXP. The auto sensor felt the film just fine and stopped on frame one. I exposed through frame 12 and watched how far I had to turn the lever when advancing film. From frame 1 to frame 12 the lever had to go slightly less and less with each advancement. At frame 1 the lever went all the way around to 9 oclock but by frame 12 the lever was only going back to about 7 oclock. After frame 12 I just kept winding the lever to 7 oclock (and then reversed it back to the top to cock the shutter) and I went through 12 more exposures without adjusting the advance lever distance.
I processed the film and I got 23 and a half frames. Had I adjusted the advance of the lever to be less and less by just a little I would have gotten all 24. But I didn't adjust it and the gap between frame 23 and frame 24 is nearly an inch on the film.
So my conclusion is that you can indeed shoot 220 film in your 120 Rolleiflex if can keep track of the exposures and either make a slight adjustment in the distance you crank the lever, or be happy to get 23 exposures instead of 24 by always turning the crank to 7 oclock.
This has been a challange to describe in words, I hope I made it understandable.
I should add that I made the exsoures at f4.5 and they are all sharp all the same all the way through.
It took me a while, but for whatever reason, I was finally able to upload a couple scans from a roll of Fuji 800z I shot one summer night. The scans were pretty disappointing. They cost me $12.00 for 5 low resolution scans that had dust and seemed like something I could have done at home. The 5x5 proofs look much better.
very cool, Dennis. Though I'm not generally a 220 shooter, I occasionally pick up some odd films here and there so it's good to know that I can use it in my Rollei.
Hello. I use Yashica MAT (not 124), with broken lightmeter, but who needs it anyhow . I really like that camera.
Welcome here, Haris. Lightmeters are a luxury... like dishwashers. They make our life easier, but don't always do the job the way we want them to. It doesn't take that much to learn to do the job without them. And in the end you know where the credit or blame lies.
Hello all. Glad to discover this group and glad that it is TLR and not just one brand... though I shoot Rolleis, I also enjoy my Minolta Autocord, which has a pretty good lightmeter. I will be printing today, and, Dennis, I'll be using your tea-toning technique for at least some of the time. Hope Earl Grey will work. --bill h
Hey Bill. That tea tone gets addictive. I have shown a lot of people stacks of prints with tea tones ones mixed in and they get a good repsonse. It is a beautiful warm color. And it makes your stop bath smell good.
Toffle, I don't see why any Rollei that doesn't have the old frame windows in the back door wouldn't work.
Rollei CLA in Canada?
Over the past year, I have heard a few discussions about the possibility of Rollei service in Canada. My beloved 3.5f has been in need of CLA since the day I bought her. I suspect there was a botched adjustment/repair sometime in her past, but I just couldn't bear to be without her. I waited until Labour Day, and with a busy period of my life starting up, I dropped her off at Windsor Photo Outfitters for some TLC. This is the kind of shop where the proprietors have become friends over the years, and they are always interested and encouraging of my efforts in the film world. They optimistically offered a two-week turnaround. I expected longer, so we will have to see. For owner/tech Adrian Harte, this is a labour of love, so I am willing to share his optimism. Just thought I'd let you know what I'm up to, and I'll keep you posted regarding any developments.
By the way, they can be found at http://photooutfitters.ca
If anyone is interested, there's a Bay I infrarot filter up for auction this week on ebay. I'd bid on it myself, except I need Bay II.
I posted this in the medium format forums, but I thought maybe I should put it here too... in case anyone knows.
I've been looking for a bay II Rollei Infrarot filter (lens) for some time now, with no luck whatsoever. Now I see an auction for a Bay I filter, (see my post below) and I'm thinking this could be my only opportunity to pick one up.
My question is, is there a Bay I to Bay II adapter available? I don't know how much smaller Bay I is, but I'm wondering if there would be significant vignetting if it is too small.
Somehow I happened to stumble into the groups here.
My first TLR is a Graflex 22 that I picked up in a thrift store for a few bucks. I had never shot MF before I had this camera (unless you count my parents old Brownie Hawkeye when I was a kid) and I was really impressed with the detail and tonality of the photos.
A few years later, I picked up a Yashica 124 (not the G) in excellent+ condition for the princely sum of $25 at another thrift shop. I had a CLA done on it and it's a great camera. Since I got the Yashica, I haven't shot the Graflex... (I need to remedy that...)
I have a question about the Yashica. The last roll of film I shot in it came out unexposed, except for a roughly circular area in the center of the frame. I used flash for these photos, and I'm pretty sure the synch was set to "X."
I'm thinking that the synch had shifted to "M" without me realizing it, or that I have a problem with the synch function. All photos on the roll were shot with flash, so I don't know how non-flash photos would have turned out. I'll be shooting another roll with both flash and no flash pictures as a quick test to check things out.
If anyone has any ideas, or suggestions, I'd certainly appreciate it.