I walk twice a week past an analog photo finishing shop with used gear and they have a Rollei Tele that I look at from the street through the window every time I go by. I think the smudge on the window there is from my nose.
Just joined today i have old yashica-mat with yashinon lens and plenty of film, glad i found this group will try to upload a few shots of the local area soon.
Welcome edgie I look forward to seeing what you can do with your TLR. I have been busy with a project, I would upload some images but they are trichromes and hybrid, I don't want to annoy anyone...
Hello, all; 'nother Yashicamat 124 user here.
PSA: if you have a Yashicamat and haven't glued down your flash selector yet, please do so. I neglected to check it last time I did a long exposure, and I'm still not 100% sure I've go the shutter working properly...
Hi to all members. Just joined APUG and saw your group. I have an Mamiya C220 with 80mm. I bought it about 5 years ago from a pawn shop, loaded it with Tri X 400 and took a couple of shots with it. Decided that I didn't have a clue how to use it, so I put it in a storage shed. About a month ago I took it out and read the manual I got online. I shot off the remaining frames on the original roll, Tri X 400. There were 8 shots left. A couple of them are in my portfolio. The results were nice enough to make me think about a more modern medium format. Oh, I guess I can post a sample to the group. I'll try that. Cheers, Sam
Regarding the previous talk of shooting 220 film in a Rollei with no 220 switch. (It is only interesting if you have some reason to shoot 220.. like you own a bunch of it already and want to shoot it in your Rollei.)
Because a 220 roll has tape on both ends of the film it is possible to reload it back in the camera after you have wound it to the end. So what you can do is put in the 220 roll and shoot the first 12 frames, at which point the camera will wind it all the way off. Take the roll out of the camera and put it back in the bottom like a fresh roll and start it on a take up spool like normal and close the camera up and shoot 12 frames again. Then the camera will roll the film off again. Now you have 24 frames exposed on the 220 roll. If you are taking it to a lab for processing you just tell them what you did so they don't think the roll is unexposed... as it will be back at the beginning again.
I tried it and it works.
If you have a T or GX or Rolleicord and don't have the auto feeler roller and you need to line up an arrow with a red dot. The arrow should be exactly 7 inches from the end of the paper at the end of the roll. So carry a pencil and make a mark before restarting.
Hello everyone. I have A lovely rollei 2.8F which has got me back into dreaming about photography as well as shooting a roll or two. I'm sure to have many questions.
I'm new to the APUG website, and I just found this group. I have a Yashica A, and it's probably one of my favorite film cameras now!
I was just curious, is there anyone here in southern California? I don't know hardly anyone around here that is interested in photography, and very few people interested in film photography. So it would be nice to meet more local people that were interested in this.
Well in the last 10 days I've shot my first serious rolls of 120 with a TLR since my Mamiya C33 & C3 were stolen in the early 80's, I was using the Yashica 124 I bought off APUG earlier in the year.
It's amazing how you can instinctively shoot, compose & frame to the square format, all the rolls of film are processed and look excellent, lack of a darkroom or scanner (here in Turkey) mean it will be a few months until I see a print, but the negatives are very sharp. (I can read a neg better than a contact print).
Now I look forward to using my Rolleiflex when I'm next in the UK, but meanwhile I'll begin to use the Yashica a lot more.
Gate, there is a thriving world of
photography in LA -- Dave Naz,
Todd Hido, Renée Jacobs, Eric
Kroll, Sita Mae Edwards, Brooks
Ayola, jeez I don't live there and
I could rattle off a dozen names
without trying. What sort of
stuff are you shooting? Sanders
Hi all. Recent arrival into the TLR fold, with a Rollei 2.8 E. Just getting the hang of things with it and liking it a lot for portrait work - the always-on viewing is great for catching expressions. Now I'm finding myself wanting a Tele-Rollei for better portrait shooting.
There is definitely something to be said for shooting portraits with a #1 or #2 Rolleinar. You get an intimate feel with an up close perspective and you can use that perspective to your advantage.
Welcome to the TLR fold.
Posting pics to the group..
I have made a few attempts at posting images to the group gallery and for some reason the images get really soft and mushy in the translation. I post the same pics to the forum gallery and they don't lose sharpness like they do with the group galleries. Anybody have a handle on how to size an image for best quality in group posting?
Scott, congratulations on the new E.
Dennis will disagree but I think the
E is the best of the Rolleiflex models.
I shoot a 3.5E and my wife shoots a
2.8E -- they're both great. Sanders
I don't disagree. I just prefer the prism.. which won't go on the E. I think pretty much Rollei has maintained the same quality since it started using Xenotars and Planars. I was hoping there would be a great difference between the FX HFT coated Planar and the F Xenotar but now that I have used them both quite a bit I find that if there is a difference it is so slight that the slightest user error would cancel the advantage. I am not sure my favorite Rollei wouldn't be the 2.8C if not for that prism issue. The E is on top of the hill just like the rest.
According to some sources, including Bob the Fish, from HP, the E series Rolleiflex's all accept the same prism as the F's. But that's not strictly true as not all have removable hoods only the E3's. Going by the serial number my Rolleiflex is supposed to be an E2, but it will accept the prism finder
Any 6x6 Rolleiflex or Rolleicord with the removable hood will take the prism.
The E2 accepts the prism just as the E3 does. I am not sure of the exact production story but as I understand it the E2 and E3 were still being made awhile after the F was introduced. The E3 is generally without a meter. I used to have an E2 w 2.8 Xenotar and optical glass back that I got at a camera show for 600USD in mint condition. Not knowing the rarity and real value of the camera as a collector I merrily used it a few years nicking it up and getting great images from it until I decided I loved it so much I wanted the best Rollei there was (I wasn't even aware of the lens options at the time). So I put that E2 on ebay, now no longer mint and having a good scratch on the back, and I was shocked when it sold for over 1400USD. With which I bought a 2.8F Planar.
What does a CLA run for a Rollei? Mine is acting a little funky - the locking lever for the door doesn't want to swivel all the way, but it does lock the door shut. I also had problems with flash sync - every other shot I took did not trigger the studio strobes I was using, connected via a pc cord (though this COULD be a problem with the strobe setup - the strobe I had to plug in to via wire didn't like the WIEN remote trigger at all). The shutter was sluggish in cold weather as well, so I figure it's time to send it off for a thorough maintenance cycle.
Depends on who and where. I had a CLA done on my E2 about 5 months ago and that was around £100 / $160. But the camera was suffering from lack of use, it had only ever had a few films through it when new in the early 60's. US prices for a CLA are usually a little less than UK.
Hi I just had one done on my T by Brian Mickleboro (based in UK). He did a nice job cleaning and re-lube of the shutter, and wind mechanism.
He also checked the focus between the view and taking lenses.
Price £87 UKP including postage.