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Correct shutter lever load on a Yashica 12 vs. Yashica D...

  1. beegee675
    Just wondering if my Yashica 12 is acting correctly... does the shutter get automatically get loaded when the advance is cranked for each exposure? I don't have a manual, and used the D for years...

  2. DWThomas
    It appears to work like some later models where you wind forward to advance the film, then wind back to cock the shutter. You can find a manual in PDF format at the Butkus site. He encourages a donation of $3 which is a steal to have the stuff available that he has out there.
  3. beegee675
    Thanks DW, did that and donated. It looks like you're right... don't know how I got all those rolls out of it, but it may have to do with the return of the inward-facing handle knob to it's recessed port in the body. One has to turn it counter-clockwise to do that after advancing the film. All those years with a manual-twist focus (on the right!) had me re-learn a few things... I don't use the meter much and just a hand held gossen, even though I had the 12 CLA'd recently. MIght you know what battery is best these days? I'm using one silver 1.55v SR44W with an 8-guage copper ring wrap to take up space in the socket...

  4. DWThomas
    I'm probably not a good guy to ask about batteries. My actual Yashica TLR is a Mat 124G and the meter seems rather intermittent, essentially not working. I suspect it has something to do with the contacts that turn it on or off when the viewfinder lid is raised or lowered, but I haven't had time to dig into it. I own a Gossen Digisix and a Sekonic L508, so I just meter separately (or use Sunny-16). I own (bought for another device) one of those Cris Camera adapters that holds a smaller silver oxide cell and puts a Schottky diode in series to replace the old PX625 mercury cell, but I've not done anything with it to judge its effectiveness. My originally intended use didn't work out because a circuit board mounting thingy couldn't keep the adapter in position.

    There have been some occasional discussions about battery issues on the regular APUG forums, but I've not experimented (yet). Zinc-air hearing aid batteries with an O-ring or other spacer is one possible solution to get approximately the original 1.35 volts. Supposedly you can just uncover one of the several air holes and the battery will last longer(!) Mayhaps some day I'll have a bit of first hand experience to offer.

    If your CLA included adjusting the meter to work on 1.5 volts, I'm thinking there is a button cell of the same dimensions as the old mercury cell, but it may not be as readily available in silver oxide, alkaline being more common.

  5. beegee675
    I've used zinc air with the ring, but as I understand, their power curve is short. Since most of the 2-1/4 stuff is one the tripod, I've got some extra hands to use the handheld meter. But I compare readings with the camera's, just to see whereit's at.
  6. Aristotle80
    My wife's hearing aids take zinc-air batteries. When she changed models the size of the battery changed, but not the useful life. They quit almost without warning and she buys them in bulk. From that experience I'd try a different solution than zinc-air. For my part, I got a handheld Sekonic meter to use with my TLRs. I didn't buy it with the intention of using it in "incident" mode, but once I tried I liked the results a lot more
  7. beegee675
    Good to see some TLR conversation... Just popped in and noticed some additional comments. After the CLA on my Yashica 12 (Essex, before they went unde water) I just wanted to run the meter to keep it alive, because the battery contact was gone and they fixed it. I use the 675 zinc air batteries because I have them coming out of my ears.... Literally, I wear two aids that have always taken them... But I find that using the TLR is often on the tripod also, and feel that the handhelds work nicely. Every now and then I look at getting a Sekonic, since I had used the twist-top version years ago for TV studio lighting and liked it. Now I usually have the choice between the small Gossen Pilot, a larger Luna Pro (which has a battery I hope still stays good) and an old Weston that's fun to see if it can still run as well as the other guys. I'm trying out going back to B&W film again and scanning the results. Just bought the Anchell & Troop film developing cookbook to see where things are at these days for developers, etc.
  8. GRHazelton
    I noticed the reference to the meter on the Yashicamat 124G. I'm unable to open the meter battery/cell compartment on mine. It is a knurled plastic "plug", threaded according to the manual, but I haven't been able to budge it. I don't want to assault with a pair of pliers, but .... Any hints out there? I've been using a handheld meter, but it would be nice to have all functions go, so to speak.
  9. beegee675
    GR- That battery cap sounds like a bit of a problem that might not get better, in the sense that you might have an old battery leaking in there. I've had surface corrosion issues with the chrome on my D version and this seems to be connected to the quality of the chrome on that model and general operational issues with the shutter and exposure wheels, too. If you look close at the knurls on those battery caps and wheels, there might be corrosion built up in the valleys from just general hand oils. But the threads on the battery cap probably corrode from something inside. I'd apply a VERY small amount (toothpick drop) of something that would neutralize and break the corrosion layer first before attempting a more forceful tool. I've used what we call "naval jelly" (Locktight) sometimes on stubborn threads that might include bimetals, such as chrome and steel, but you have to careful with it's use on aluminum. With the knowledge that most cameras operate "dry", any liquids or oils have to be used carefully. Grip the threads with a strip of rubber and try to work back and forth.
  10. beegee675
    Just dropped in to add a technique to to sticky/frozen caps.... I had to get a couple of old Miranda caps off that were fused tight... Used a tad bit of RadioShack's tuner lube and peeled off the inset "leatherette" dot covering. Drilled two small (3/32"?) holes opposite each other down through the cap top and inserted the tips of a small needle-nose pliers and gave it a back and forth twist. Since I'll use 675 zinc air batteries in that model, the holes will help. Or just replace the leatherette cover dot and you're back in business. (unless the corrosion discovered inside is a real mess...) (This is a carry-over technique from having to get off the crank-arm hub caps that were froze on my old Gitane SC...)

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