Just wondering if my Yashica 12 is acting correctly... does the shutter get automatically get loaded when the advance is cranked for each exposure? I don't have a manual, and used the D for years...
It appears to work like some later models where you wind forward to advance the film, then wind back to cock the shutter. You can find a manual in PDF format at the Butkus site. He encourages a donation of $3 which is a steal to have the stuff available that he has out there.
Thanks DW, did that and donated. It looks like you're right... don't know how I got all those rolls out of it, but it may have to do with the return of the inward-facing handle knob to it's recessed port in the body. One has to turn it counter-clockwise to do that after advancing the film. All those years with a manual-twist focus (on the right!) had me re-learn a few things... I don't use the meter much and just a hand held gossen, even though I had the 12 CLA'd recently. MIght you know what battery is best these days? I'm using one silver 1.55v SR44W with an 8-guage copper ring wrap to take up space in the socket...
I'm probably not a good guy to ask about batteries. My actual Yashica TLR is a Mat 124G and the meter seems rather intermittent, essentially not working. I suspect it has something to do with the contacts that turn it on or off when the viewfinder lid is raised or lowered, but I haven't had time to dig into it. I own a Gossen Digisix and a Sekonic L508, so I just meter separately (or use Sunny-16). I own (bought for another device) one of those Cris Camera adapters that holds a smaller silver oxide cell and puts a Schottky diode in series to replace the old PX625 mercury cell, but I've not done anything with it to judge its effectiveness. My originally intended use didn't work out because a circuit board mounting thingy couldn't keep the adapter in position.
There have been some occasional discussions about battery issues on the regular APUG forums, but I've not experimented (yet). Zinc-air hearing aid batteries with an O-ring or other spacer is one possible solution to get approximately the original 1.35 volts. Supposedly you can just uncover one of the several air holes and the battery will last longer(!) Mayhaps some day I'll have a bit of first hand experience to offer.
If your CLA included adjusting the meter to work on 1.5 volts, I'm thinking there is a button cell of the same dimensions as the old mercury cell, but it may not be as readily available in silver oxide, alkaline being more common.
I've used zinc air with the ring, but as I understand, their power curve is short. Since most of the 2-1/4 stuff is one the tripod, I've got some extra hands to use the handheld meter. But I compare readings with the camera's, just to see whereit's at.