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Driven from LA.

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  1. Curt
    "If you see a guy with a cheap rental car and a tripod set up along the side of the road...It is me! I am up to 19 holders but some of then turned out kind of bad. "

    How bad are they? Is the end tape off or loose or are they just older wooden ones that have worn out? Some things can be fixed and some cannot. If you are not sure bring them along for a consult on them, everyone will give advice about whether to fix or toss.
  2. jaimeb82
    the part that opens on both sides where the sheets comes in is loose, I put some tape around but I am not sure if light will go in. I am bringing all of them and tape. A guy here in NYC was selling them at $4, but they are old and dusty.
  3. Don12x20
    Get some bookbinding tape, or some gaffers tape - black. You can easily replace the tape. Avoid bumps, creases,...anything that would keep the holder from seating properly.

    Are they plastic or wood? If wood, check to ensure not warped. Slight warping will prevent light tight seal when in the camera. A little stray light goes a long way in ruining an image.

    Number your holders and notch the flaps with a notch code. That way you can track any (plastic or wood) that have problems. Discard those. Or if you don't wish to notch, then number the holders and keep detailed notes so you can figure out which ones might be giving problems (this does not work as well if you make more than 2 exposures of an image for any reason).
  4. mike c
    mike c
    Don,where do you notch your film holders,I hate to create new light leaks in them. Ilike the idea of notching them, it works good for my Hassleb. mags.

  5. Jim Graves
    Jim Graves
    Here is a good example of how this is done. It is merely a knife or file created notch on the bottom flap of the film holder. Everybody has a different system of notches ... just so no two holders have the same notch. The notches show up on the margin of the negative.

    Here's the link: Link
  6. Don12x20
    Yeah the butzi url gives a good picture.
    What you'll need to decide is...how many holders are you going to have? If more than a few, putting a notch code sequence is useful.

    Some use a simple binary code (with equal spacing between notch sites.).

    If you have as many 8x10 holders as I do, you'll be wanting something more than binary. (You can never have enough holders...)

    If this is the case, take an index card and make a code of locations. say an area for 10's, a location for a 5, and a location where 1-4 unitary notches can be made, and one more location for A and B side of the holder(or some other means of telling which side).....so 8x10 holder 76sideA would be 50notch, 2-10 notch, a 5 notch and one unitary notch, and the A/B location unnotched.

    Or you could use binary 1001100-1 ... or whatever you deem of use as a system.

    Don't use simple drilled holes like St Ansel once proposed -- Sexton tried this long ago and showed me some results back in 1988 where the holes didn't expose fully, giving faulty numbers. Use notches instead. Yes there are cases where notches don't show -- for instance if the notched area fell on a zone 0..totally dark in the image with nothing in the negative. I rarely saw this.

    A hint on fidelity holders -- notch with a triangular file, fairly deeply, then take an x-acto(tm) knife and clean out the fuzz from the notch that the file leaves using the edge of the blade on the edges of the notch. And if you're a stickler for an even smoother finish, get a little xylene (hardware store cans, or small quantities in the form of liquid, not tube, modelers cement at the hobby store). Get a little brush and use the liquid cement it on the notch to further clean out the notch by lightly melting the plastic- carefully done this leaves a realy sharp edge on the notch...you're not melting much of the plastic just the offending fuzz left by the file.

    You'll also want to write the number used on the little white tab on the fidelity holder (or elsewhere). makes it easier for notetaking, particularly if you use the zone system where you'd want to develop each sheet in a different manner. But this also makes it easier to find a holder that has gone bad and has light leaks or some other problem.
  7. mike c
    mike c
    The weather changed in LA hear from rainy to hot again,maybe Jim's Indian summer rain dance is starting to work.
  8. mike c
    mike c
    Don,sorry I did not replay right away but thanks alot for the information on marking film holders.I've only have 6 right now and hunting for more so I've just numbered them in the white box for now.

  9. Curt
    "the part that opens on both sides where the sheets comes in is loose, I put some tape around but I am not sure if light will go in. I am bringing all of them and tape. A guy here in NYC was selling them at $4, but they are old and dusty."

    I bought a box of film holders, 4x5, 5x7, an 8x10, the seller said they were dusty and slightly dirty from sitting in a basement. It was cheap so I took a chance. The 8x10 was shot, tossed it, the 4x5's were nasty dirty, put them in a box to be tossed, the 5x7's must have been protected by the others and they were just dusty. One had some black paint flaking off after cleaning and I found out the hard way when the flakes got on a film.

    I got about 16 of them, plastic and not wood holders, I do have some very nice wood holders too and some new ones. My 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 holders are all new, got lucky several times, my 8x10 holders are very near new. Most of my 4x5 are new. You have to check them out carefully when used, especially the t-depth and light trap.
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