Just got a box of Fuji Green in the mail and excited to try it. A few questions though;
I read it's ISO 200 outdoors in rodinal 1:200 for 6.5 minutes. What about indoors? ISO 25?
And it doesn't develop in tubes or drums well? That's fine, because i have 3 dip and dunk SS tanks, and some trays...
But with only 3 tanks... Dev, Fix, Water wash? How long do I need to water wash to make the negatives remain archival without permawash? Or should I take them out of the hangars at that point?
Also, how long will the fix last in the dip and dunk tanks? And If I got a tank for the Permawash? If I rubber band a plastic bag around the top as a lid? These tanks take a lot of chemistry, so I don't want to waste any...
With regards to a lid on the Dev tank so I can leave the darkroom... I can use a black paper bag and rubber band it around the dev tank? I'm assuming it will fit... I can get an 11x14 bag.
I got a box of 8x10 a couple of months ago and I love the stuff. I've just started experimenting with it as ASA 200 and I process it in Ilford paper developer under a safelight and develop through inspection. Here's what I shot. I wash it with a tray siphon. The emulsion is very soft so handle with care.
so basically, process it like a print? How long do you develop it for in paper developer?
i can't speak for your particular film but i have used x-ray duplicating film (a reversal film) to enlarge negatives for pt/pd printing. That film is very slow. I use Kodak GBX (dental x-ray chemistry - dev - water stop - fix - wash - dry) and wash for 45min in a chambered print washer. I haven't used PermaWash and have not had problems. That film requires a red safelight. I'm sure there are various combinations that work. Find the one that works for you and stick with it. I would leave it in the hangers to avoid handling until dry and then preferably with cotton gloves unless you have a border that you don't mind having fingerprints on.
With paper developer, it works faster than film developer.
Originally Posted by EASmithV
One point I'd like to make is that film is blind to red colors. Anything that has orange or red might show up dark or black. I'm guess guessing on what might happen.
The orthochromatic nature of these films needs to be taken into consideration for sure. I shot wedding photos for a friend using some blue-sensitive 8x10 aerial film. The bride's bouquet was mostly bright yellow daffodils (as seen the first photo), but the aerial film rendered them almost black.
Since the film is blue sensitive, and yellow is opposite of blue, the flowers ended up black. I'd imaging for my Fuji HRT X-ray film is green sensitive, anything I shoot that is magenta will be black. I guess that's why we pay big bucks for orthochromatic film.