So a couple thoughts.
First is that you'll probably be in the 150mm to 210mm range for focal length to get close to the same angle of view.
Second the maximum aperture on the lens will probably be marked as somewhere close to f/5.6. Bellows draw as you move in close reduces effective aperture so maybe 5.6 & 1/3 to 5.6 & 1/2.
That puts you around 1/10th for speed. That's not the whole story though.
You need to test your film in real terms with a real live subject just like your example. 3 shots done at EI 400,800,1600 with the film you intend to use. If you find that you can shoot at 1600 and get the detail you need/want/like then you are back to 1/60thish. If 800 works the 1/30th.
I'd recommend that the OP use studio flash. You really need at least f/16 to get reasonable DOF with lenses that are 200mm and up.
you can shoot handheld, and have the image right side up use available light ...
use / shoot faster films and stop down ... too
look for a graflex slr or any of the slr type large format cameras ( they made them upto 5x7, and even a gowland TLR that is 8x10 )
you can put the camera on a tripod and view the glass with a dark cloth, or through the hood.
the graflex slrs are the most versatile large format portrait cameras made ...
i've had and used one for almost 20 years, and it is probably my favorite large camera to use .. portable too ...
good luck !
ps. nice portrait !
Put it this way ... some of the best portrait work ever done utilized big view camera and lenses far
more primitive than what has since been made. Look at the damn auction prices, and what some
folks are willing to spend on a classic 1920's portrait lens without even a shutter, for example. I've
found that subjects are more cooperative, whether in studio or in enviro portraiture settings, if they
know it's serious. In other words, a big 8x10, darkcloth, and groundglass image actually helps. But
as insurance, I made it a habit of keeping either a MF or Nikon with a long portrait lens nearby,
just in case.
There is always the old style subject head clamps used way back when. :)
Use a leaf shutter with high speed flash sync. The Pentax 67 has the 165mm f4 leaf shutter lens (or the 90mm LS) for portraiture and high speed flash sync to 1/500. It's minimum focus though is 1.2m, so you're well back from the subject and able to control depth of focus satisfactorily. Film of 400 ISO would be a good choice.
People will generally hold still for a slow shutter speed. Dogs on the other hand do not always cooperate.
You can figure this out from the ratio of the film sizes, which is easy in this case because 6x7 (55x69mm) is basically the same aspect ratio as 4x5 film (95x115mm), and the ratio of the two sizes is about 115/69=1.66. If you're familiar with 6x7 and want to think about 4x5 options, keep that 1.66 number in mind for all your conversions.
Originally Posted by 10speeduk
To get the same field of view, you need 110*1.66 = 180mm lens. And for the same DOF, f/(2.8*1.66) = f/4.5. And because of the smaller relative aperture, you need 1.66^2 = 2.8x (about 1.5 stops) more illumination, exposure time or sensitivity.
f/4.5 lenses are not real common on 4x5 but they do exist, e.g. Xenars. Most people just cheap out and buy modern f/5.6 lenses and ignore that last half-stop - you won't be able to shoot in as low light as you can with the RZ; you will need 2 stops more light (f/5.6 vs f/2.8) than the RZ does. That's the tradeoff with bigger film.
If you go to 8x10 that's a doubling, so it's 2 more stops of light required over what 4x5 needs.
Great explanation. Thanks polyglot. Am looking at sinar f2 at the moment. Indoor portrait with the odd outdoor shoot.
Originally Posted by polyglot