And of course, I feel rather dim now for not recognising the irrelevance of shutter speed to the effect of the flash on the photo :S Great explanations!
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And of course, I feel rather dim now for not recognising the irrelevance of shutter speed to the effect of the flash on the photo :S Great explanations!
The old rule of thumb with guide numbers and bounced flash is to add the distances from the flash to the ceiling (or whatever surface you are bouncing off of) and the distance from ceiling to subject. Then give it one more stop of exposure. It worked for me back in the olden days.
Subject-to-camera distance is irrelevant, it's flash-to-subject distance that matters for metering.Quote:
Originally Posted by jayvo86
If you don't have a flashmeter but do have a DSLR, you can preview iteratively with that to get your exposure correct, then transfer the settings to your film camera to get a good exposure. After a while, you'll get a feel for how powerful the flash is and know what sort of aperture you can achieve with standard ceiling heights and bouncing.