^^^generally measuring your hand or a gray card and applying "kentucky windage" will set you up for reflected readings.
You need to be familiar with the angle of view of the meter, and to be able to tell what the meter is actually seeing.
You can then look at that portion of the scene, and evaluate for yourself how much the average reflectance of that portion deviates from a middle/18% grey.
In essence, I look at the scene and say to myself something like: "that looks to average out at about two stops/zones brighter than a middle grey. So I better take a reading and then open up two stops."
I prefer to use incident metering.
Come to think of it I almost never used a wide angle reflective handheld meter. If I do it's the built in meter in the camera. With a handheld meter I either use spot or incident.
With a spot meter you should be setting out to examine the luminance of critical parts of the subject and not assume it is overall an "average" scene of Zone V from a singular reference point The method you stated :
is the incorrect use of a spot meter. Examine the entire scene and let the meter determine the SBR and thus the resultant exposure.Quote:
When I'm feeling lazy, I just pick what I want it to be zone V and meter THAT using spot. Most times, I use it incident if I can get to the subject.
It makes no difference on the camera, certainly not panoramic. Nor strictly does the field of view of the lens. The viewfinder will determine the limits (edge) of metering. But you will be doing more metering for that given (panorama) format. I have done this with my own 6x17cm so I speak from experience.
I don't see how your situation will be improved any by shifting away from the flagship 758.
Oh, yes. I am fully aware I'm doing it incorrectly. That's why I said L A Z Y. "Kind of sort of in the ball park" is all I'm looking for when I do that.
My wanting simpler non-spot has whole different purpose. Please do not over analyze....
I don't really see how a panorama camera will make things more difficult with metering — any type of metering. And I speak from experience with a 6x17cm.
"Field of view" of the meter is not relevant. What and where (and how) you meter has weight. You will only be metering those elements / subjects that you are see through the (pano) viewfinder, which will be reasonably well matched to the angle of coverage of the lens. If there are very dark and very light areas in the image you can take a gamble (as you are wont to do) and think they'll be averaged with incident or reflective based on a grey card (even if your meter's memory function is usefully employed in additive mode) but the scene is actually crying out for spot metering — a method that delivers excellent results when used correctly.