4x5 macro work and closeup lenses

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Q.G.

6 stops at 3x is a quite a lot. That lens must be a very asymmetric tele-construction.

---

Forgot to add (the obvious - so perhaps not so bad that i did forget ;)): finding a (more) symmetric lens will reduce light loss to (ideally) 'only' 4 stops at 3x.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Q.G.

While that may seem important, it isn't.

Stopping down more will increase DoF more. True. But the increase is from "nothing" to "next to nothing".
You will still need to change your way of thinking about how to get everything in focus that must be in focus. DoF will not be the solution.

---

I think this is one of the reasons why macro works so well with large format. Camera movements allow you to adjust the plane of focus in order to maximize the focus on the subject of interest. A good monorail will allow virtually unlimited bellows draw along with movements that would make a pretzel envious. Focusing in the 3-4x range should be a snap.

I sometimes use a Nikon 4T closeup lens with the 120 AMED, and am very happy with it. That is a formidable combination. Offhand I don't remember how far the AMED stops down, maybe f/45, but I recall that it often isn't enough by a long shot and one has to think about movements to try to get a bit more focus control.

My latest macro weapon is the rz 110/2.8 adapted to LF; the lens is so bright that you really can work on the movements very effectively, even at high mag (beyond 3:1). The lens certainly isn't optimized for that kind of thing, and it'd not be a good setup if field curvature is a concern, but for everything else... bear in mind that a fast smaller format lens, at high mag, will cover LF. So I have put various nikon lenses, reversed, in a press shutter.

Experiment and have fun!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bosaiya

I think this is one of the reasons why macro works so well with large format. Camera movements allow you to adjust the plane of focus in order to maximize the focus on the subject of interest. A good monorail will allow virtually unlimited bellows draw along with movements that would make a pretzel envious. Focusing in the 3-4x range should be a snap.

---

you can say that again!

I use a Schneider Macro 120mm HM Symmar with 5x4, and used in conjunction with a Maxwell HI-LUX Ultra Brilliant Matt 4.7 focussing screen gives a bright image. I think the Schneider lenses are slightly brighter and easier to focus than the Rodenstocks, though this may be a subjective experience derived from my own lenses. I consider the DOF, stopped down within the optimum range, at a magnification of 3x to offer a few millimeters of sharp focus. With macro lenses you will get much better results than either reversing a lens or using a close-up lens. If you shop around, you can buy a Macro lens in good condition for a few hundred pounds. I paid around £400 for a mint Schneider last year.

I can extend my magnification by mounting the lens on a top hat and using Ebony's extension back which gives me an extra 90mm draw to my camera's bellows 365mm draw. The top hat adds an extra 35mm draw to that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Willie Jan

Hi,
i am using a 120 rodenstock macro lens.
When using it at 3:1 i loose 6 stops of light.

Is there someone who did a test between using a closeup lens together with a macro and only using a macro lens? I would like to know if there is a quality drop when using a close up lens. At this moment i do not own a closeup lens, so I can't test it...

---

According to the Manual of Close-up Photography, at that magnification, you need to increase exposure by 4 stops. Be careful when stopping down, too much and you will get diffraction. Enlarger lenses do work very well as macro lenses. Some longer focal length lenses will not function properly for cloe-up or macro due to their construction. Reversing a lens is most times a better way to achieve the results you are after.

Rick

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bosaiya

I think this is one of the reasons why macro works so well with large format. Camera movements allow you to adjust the plane of focus in order to maximize the focus on the subject of interest. A good monorail will allow virtually unlimited bellows draw along with movements that would make a pretzel envious. Focusing in the 3-4x range should be a snap.

---

Some macro bellows for 135 cameras have front swings and tilts. IIRC, at least couple offer them on back too.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ralnphot

According to the Manual of Close-up Photography, at that magnification, you need to increase exposure by 4 stops. Be careful when stopping down, too much and you will get diffraction. Enlarger lenses do work very well as macro lenses. Some longer focal length lenses will not function properly for cloe-up or macro due to their construction. Reversing a lens is most times a better way to achieve the results you are after.

Rick

---

"Manual of Close-up Photography"
i will get a used copy of that.

Thanks.

I see its available at Amazon.com, I've had my copy for almost 20 years. Very good book many charts and tables of info, and loads of how-to and home built gear.

Rick

i found one on ebay for 8 pounds sterling.