Yeah there was a tessar type of Seagull 4a, I never tested one,
they are quite rare...
but I like the standard HAIOU 85 lens (Anastigmat 3 elements but very high quality with Zeiss Glass imported from former GDR, its sharper than a Agfa Apotar of my Agfa folder), Haiou SA85 has a very nice bokeh and its sharp.
These are the older 4b from the 70s with handknob advance, they are reliable and the SA85 is a good simple lens....astonishingly good, I have seen less sharp Tessars in other cameras compared to this nice Anastigmat.
Do you know wether the later Tessar 4B also had imported Zeiss lenses?
When was your camera built?
I never saw one.
Could you please tell us code of the lens HAIOU and than the number of the tessar type?
Is it even called "Tessar" if yes its defintly a Zeiss split off....maybe older
Rollei lenses that Zeiss still had on stock during the 80s and later sold to the chinese factory?
I guess I can't see how changing the aperture when the shutter is cocked will cause any problems. Do you mean do not change the shutter speed once the shutter is cocked?
Sleeping seagull :-)
ON ANY COMPUR TYPE OF LEAFSHUTTER CAMERA:
NEVER CHANGE THE APERTURE SETTINGS WHEN SHUTTER IS COCKED!!
I CANT MENTION THIS OFTEN ENOUGH ;-)
How could the aperture mechanism affect the shutter mechanism?
Originally Posted by AaTen
Doesn't the camera have a coupled EV scale? In which case the aperture will move the shutter. But just a guess.
Originally Posted by AgX
Blame on me!!!
Yes, it has and I totally forgot about that feature.
(Actually I own a Seagull 203 myself... In as-new state, except of the rangefinder patch which is not visible. Thus I stored it immediately waiting for me to have time to repair it. The distance scale has got such thin letters that is barely readible, in contrast to the shutter scale. This shows what effect little faults in typographic design can have..)
But what puzzled me from the very first moment was its exposure calculator:
It got a dial with multiple markings of circle segments (seemingly indicating the degree of overcast, one of them though enigmatic to me, indicating rain as I found out by now).
Corresponding are markings refering to the setting as Indoor/Outdoor. So far so good. But next to these obvious distinctions are also those of Near/Landscape.
How could the latter be of influence on the exposure?
I guess I got the idea behind it:
As Near is set in the ranking of Bright Indoor/Shade/Near/Landscape/Sea&Snow I guess the idea is that in a situation with objects/people outdoors nearby there still would be some shade whereas in an open landscape...
Well, not really conclusive, but the best I can think of.
This link will bring you to a PDF copy of the 203 instruction manual booklet,
print it out and put it to your camera its valuable.
The RF Calculator is intersting and it works if your lightmeter is lost or still at home.
Here you can read how it works:
Yeah never adjust exposure and aperture after cocking a compur.
I ve got another thread in the Rangefinder Forum
there you can find some other usefull Seagull 203 infos, I just love this tiny folder camera.... (The grease / oil / lubricant of the compur can become sticky after all those years, I dropped very very Little amount of weapons ultra fine ashless thin oil (Dont use WD40, better get some ballistol rifle oil ) between the aperture, cocking levers (very very little amount of cleaning oil) so it can seep into the compur between the levers...I noticed that slow times now run quicker again....
NEVER USE LIGHTER FLUID or Mos2 / Graphite etc...for freeing a sticky compur. Beware of getting oil onto the shutter blades or between the lens glass elements.
I am sure a lot of sticky Seagulls (type 4 TLR and 203 )need some new oil or even better a professional CLA....the shutter often isnt the problem, the lubricant is (on all old cameras)
I know that manual, but it does not make me wiser concerning that exposure calculator, that's why I asked.
I had (probably still do have in storage somewhere) a Seagull 203. When it was good, it was great, but it was never entirely predictable. Sometimes the focus would just be off a little and you'd get an unplanned, unpredictable soft-focus effect. Film advance is lever-wind via red window, and it could take either 6x6 or 6x4.5 images using a built-in set of masking doors in the film transport chamber, which would lock the entire roll into one format or the other. IIRC there were bright-line markers in the finder for 6x4.5 composition. Mine developed a mechanical problem with the film advance - the advance lever now just slews freely and doesn't turn the film. I suspect a screw or two have sheared off and it no longer engages, or else a gear self-stripped somehow.