I just got the RB67 pro-s and so far I love it. I got mine with a lens and the 120 back from KeH for around $300 (Bargain rating but it looks in great shape) There is a bit of a learning curve but the image quality is incredible. Depending on what you're looking for an RZ maybe a better fit. There's a video on youtube comparing the models (this person decided on the RZ.) The RB is entirely mechanical, the RZ is more modern (metering, hot shoe, etc) but as such requires a battery to operate.
I got RZ67 as my first MF, dont have anything to complain.
If I understand it correctly, your enlarger is designed to be an autofocus model.
Originally Posted by gus.
As such, you may need to obtain a lens that covers 6x7 and an autofocus track to go with that lens.
It may be that the B5 will work well without autofocus - I do not know.
In addition, there are supplementary condensers designed to maximize the efficiency of the light source for different formats. They would be great to have, but as long as the condenser(s) you have are able to cover the largest size of negative you are working with, things should be fine.
Boy, my bid's at $600 and change for an RZ with a 110/2.8 and two 120 backs. I went RZ for the few extra digital controls over the RB. Full functionality sounds nice but a few bells and whistles wouldn't hurt! I'll keep an extra battery handy. ;)
Originally Posted by cepwin
Interesting. Thanks Matt.
Originally Posted by MattKing
I am guessing that because of the age of the B5, you might have trouble finding a 6x7 carrier.
KBH and Classic Enlargers are sources to check out.
If the bulb is old and dim, change it and you will be back to the higher light level.
I normally keep at least 1 spare on hand. But these days, you can't just drop down to your local camera shop for a bulb, so I keep 2 or 3 spares on hand. My last order was for 4 bulbs, so I will have 3 spares.
- Check is the inside of the light head. If the white paint has yellowed, you are loosing light. Clean and repaint so it is white again and you will get more light.
- Clean the condenser lenses. I just cleaned the mirror on my Durst, there was a layer of dust on it, which also means the inside of the condenser head probably has a coat of light absorbing dust on it...more cleaning.
About the autofocus that Matt mentioned above. Can you manually focus the lens on your enlarger? I recall that with the autofocus D2 that I used in high school, we could still focus the lens manually, so we could totally override the autofocus. The reason is, if you do not have the autofocus cam for the longer lens (for 6x7), you will have to manually focus.
What a bummer. I was bidding on a BEAUTIFUL RZ at what seemed a reasonable price. The bid was at $610 and to be cautious I placed my max bid at $651. I refreshed just seconds before it finished and I was still winning the auction at $610 -- up to the last second -- only to be told I had LOST the auction to another bidder at $661! What the heck, haha. I don't understand. Did the other guy place his bid at the last second? If he had placed a max bid himself then my original $610 would have risen, no? Gah! Back to the search.
Some people run software to do just that. At the very end, they beat you so you can't beat him back.
I use "sniping" software for all my bids - I'm sure the winning bidder used some of his/her own.
Originally Posted by tkamiya
There are lots of competing sources - the one I use is eSnipe.
I use gixen for sniping. It's web-based and free.
However, getting the last bid in doesn't guarantee you will win. If an earlier bid had an higher maximum than your snipe, that will win regardless of when you submit your bid.
The best thing about sniping is avoiding the bidding wars. When a bunch of people are manually submitting bids over the course of a few days, the prices can get quite out of hand. People will go over their "maximum" because it becomes so tempting to be the winner.