Whatever you're scanning with you're getting great scans. Don't change anything - just try and diagnose any focus issues, if any. MF DOF, wide-open is almost razor thin (it only gets thinner the large the format). But either way, I think that setup has great potential.
That tall pipe: if you focused accurately on the top then I would expect the bottom to be OOF because the camera is pointing slightly downwards therefore the pipe does not lie within the plane of focus. I'd not be surprised to see both the pump-head and the brick about 200mm in front of the bottom of the pipe.
Yeah, you missed the rock. It happens.
The log works very well though; I do like the blurry green foresty look.
You see replacement screens advertised for Bronica cameras. Beattie made some and I believe another company did too. It is very easy to replace the screen on the SQ series, and I would expect the GS to be similar. These screens claim to give better focussing by being a stop or more brighter than the original screen. Perhaps someone here has used one and can say if it is a worthwhile investment? Alex
Thanx for the feedback.
The negatives were scanned by the lab that processed them.
There are worse pictures (mostly worse composition and lots of magenta)... I picked the better ones that illustrated my issues with focus.
I had focused on the pipe a bit above the middle, where the light made it easier. Then I apparently moved, so the air is probably nicely focused somewhere :)
When I take a slow hand-held exposure, I focus first, then take a stance I know I can hold. Motion blur and mirror slap are different issues that I can identify and know how to deal with.
Looking back, I don't think the focusing screen is my issue (though will look into getting another to make life easier). I think my main problem is shifting my posture (even slightly) combined with not realizing how shallow the lens DOF is compared to 35mm. These will be tough as they involve a life-time of habits more than anything else.
Don't take anything slower than 1/25 or so hand held... no matter how "steady" you think you are.
I have a Beattie in my Hasselblad. It makes a world of difference over the original focussing screen.
Well, if there's really no other option, taking a flyer on a slow shutter speed might be better than making no attempt at all. But yeah, I'd say that even 1/25 is really stretching it for most people with a MF SLR.
Originally Posted by Jeff Searust
If you're shooting in a forest, of course, every fallen stick is a potential monopod.
Try setting approx focus and then shifting your body back and forth to do the fine focus. The awareness of your position inherent in focusing using your position often means good results.
This reminds me a bit of an old TV commercial, which I managed to find on YouTube (sorry, lol):
My next couple rolls will be on a tripod and specifically explore the lens' DOF. Probably very boring shots down the neighbor's wooden fence. I need to learn how to use this instead of "work around" it. It will definitely improve my photography in general.