I have a Sonnar 150 lens, whose flash sync seems to be faulty. Although, it will work if I apply pressure to it with my finger while i press the shutter. This obviously won't fly for any kind of shooting that requires both hands. I use the lens on a Hasselblad 500 C/M, and was wondering if the flash sync socket on the body will work as a replacement. The flash does fire when I use it, although I'm not sure if it is in sync with the shutter in the lens. Has anybody used this socket bofore instead of the one on the lens? Also, would the one on the lens be expensive to fix? Thanks for any help you can offer.
Why don't you try running a test roll using different shutter speeds and the body socket to make sure it syncs at all speeds. I am not 100% sure as my hassy dosen't have a body socket, but since you are still using the leaf shutter in the lens it should still be synced.
Yea i did that today...well kind of....seeing as how I only used one shutter speed(1/125). The roll is at the shop being processed now. I'll shoot another roll at each speed and see what happens.....
</span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Silverpixels5 @ Apr 25 2003, 09:56 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> I use the lens on a Hasselblad 500 C/M, and was wondering if the flash sync socket on the body will work as a replacement.</td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
I've scoured over *both* 530Cx's and I can't find anything remotely resembling a PC socket on the bodies - outside of the SCA connector. The 150 Sonnar I have doesn't have any electrical connection to the body ... so?
One great danger with most synch cords is that they will fit a standard two-prong 110v outlet ... and if that happens there will be the classic blue flash -- but there won't be much doubt about synchronization. One of the major reasons for choosing Dyna Lites is their three-prong plugs on their synch cords.
Heavy use with older Studio Flash units with high synch voltages (actually it is te current that matters) will erode the synch system - that should result in intermittent operation rather than "timing" problems - but who knows - anything is possible and that word "should" is a big one.
There is no flash synch socket on a C/M body. There is a connection for the TTL synchronization module on 503Cx, Cxi and CW bodies, but even on those actual triggering of the flash is from the socket on the lens.
As you've probably discovered by now, the socket on the body synchs with the back shutter _only_ and not the lens shutter. It'll fire the before the lens shutter opens, which doesn't do much good.
Try a different synch cord, try using a PC Tip Conditioner tool, or try bending the center pin of the cord's plug slightly off-center. If none of these cure the problem you'll probably need to have a repairman replace the lens' pc outlet.
The "PC" socket on the body you mention is actually the "auxillary shutter PC socket" and NO, it will not work. It is meant for usage when doing pinhole work, etc. That means that you may have a 500C-Transition body. If you use that socket, you'll be randomly in/out of sync with the shutter.
Now, the PC socket on the 150CF Sonnars have a very common problem with not working except with pressure. This is because of 2 things: 1) the o-ring in the PC collar is frayed and has pressed itself down into the socket and 2) the socket is corroded/loose from the lens mount (or there is paint under the ground).
Typically, (I have had this issue with many a 150CF) the easiest fix is to get an allen key that fits the pc socket. Remove this "cover nut". Check the o-ring to see if it has fallen apart. If yes, replace or remove (it's only to keep the pc cable from falling out). Then, youll see around the pc socket innards itself some paint/corrosion. Scrape this crap off with an exacto knife. Then, if you have one of the lenses where the pc socket has the little screw next to it (mine does), loosen them slightly, shift the socket around a touch, and tighten the screws. You may have to bend the blade on the exacto to get under the socket and remove any paint that may be there.
That has always fixed my sync problems with the 150CF. If it doesn't, then the internal linkage of the socket to the shutter is failing and will need replaced.
BTW, there are two types of PC socket connections you can get from Paramount cables. One is the "standard" PC socket (short and barrel like). The other is primarily designed for the older style C lenses and is longer (longer and funnel shaped). I have replaced all my cables with the latter and it 1) stays in better 2) gets better contact 3) hasn't ever failed on syncing and 4) shoves that damn o-ring out of the way if it is getting old.
Oh, and be careful with that damn PC socket conditioner. I have seen many of those POS things used, but roughly and the user widening the center contact barrel on the PC socket, worsening the problem...
> Also, would the one on the lens be expensive to fix? Thanks for any help you can offer.
My buddy just had the PC socket and internal sync spring replaced in a Hassy 120mm.
w/Overhaul and parts = Cost $250. at http://www.gilghitelman.com/repair.html