Since we are on the subject.... How do you verify that Hasselblad equipment is actually genuine Hasselblad equipment? Case in point - WLF's. The item below is $200, but nothing on it says Hasselblad, and there is no serial number. How do you verify that this isn't a viewfinder from a Kiev 88 for instance?
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500CM with 50, 80 + lens hood, 120 f5.6 + lens hood silver lenses, (some separation of elephants in 120, but works well), 3 extn tubes, lots of filters, bellows lens hood, spare focusing screens, folding screen hood, 45 degree prism and stove pipe viewfinders, but only one A12 back - I have it for sale right now in Quinninup, $2750 the lot
In addition, I am selling the most expensive box camera ever made, a Hasselblad SWC/M with black 38mm lens, one back, focussing back for $2750
This equipment is in very good working order, but it earned my living for years and has some paint missing
+61 8 9773 1288
Well, small update, I emailed the seller I had in mind and got a few things clear, the body had only paint worn off, so the ridges were just fine. Also everything on the body worked as it should. The Zeiss 80mm was flawless optically, and the shutter speeds seemed okay to the seller, so after checking with my repair technician (great guy, gives appraisals for free for analog cameras, repairs just about everything and has been in the field since the middle '60s, when he started working for the biggest camera workshop in Finland), I went ahead and bought it. I would have taken up some of the offers here, but since this combo went for less than 700 dollars I thought it best not to waste anyones time, since I'm a bit strapped for cash and this helped me avoid a 25% sales tax and a 25% import tax (everything over 50 USD is subject to at least a 25% import tax if it comes from outside of the EU).
But, now I need a finder, strap and an A12 back. I have found some good ones, and have put a bid in for one on ebay, but if anyone has a A12-back (preferably black to match the body) that's in good condition, I'd be interested.
Also, how hard is it to replace the winding knob on a 500C/M with a late model crank?
Should be trivial. It just pops off and on, without tools.
Originally Posted by Stuggi