Thanks for the answer and suggestion about using 127 backing paper, Keith. I suppose that the key to this is whether the 120 film in its original backing paper allows the light to penetrate further than the neg surrounds. As long as light strike is restricted to the neg surrounds then it doesn't matter.
I take it that your experience is that light penetration doesn't encroach onto the neg itself?
Hard to answer- it depends how good a job you do cutting it so that it fits tightly on the spool. If it's cut much too short then there could be a lot of fogging from the edges. And some films are notorious for light-piping all the way through, e.g. HIE and any IR or extended red film will probably give problems and the loading and unloading should be done in the dark. I vaguely recall that some of the film bases really pipe like crazy. To be on the safe side, it's probably best to load and unload in the dark and use a black container for the film.
The slit film I bought from somewhere came wrapped in foil! I would definitely store it that way and load/unload in a changing bag or under a jacket or something.
Yep I guess that's what Richard means. I saw something a lot lighter that looked like it might do the job. Anything that has an easily replaceable or sharpenable blade should work.
Originally Posted by himself
And it'd be best to have some sort of "stop" to make sure it's cut at the right place... maybe I'll make a sleeve or something out of pvc pipe.
yes, you can get smaller ones and as far as I can remember they can be set to cut to a certain depth
It's a pity 127 died. I'm a little surprised, Super Slides are cool.
Pipe cutters like the one pictured earlier aren't made for very deep cuts, and aren't all that sharp in comparison to a blade.
A plastic tubing cutter, such as one of these might be a better choice;
I have a low-end plastic handled one sold for cutting PEX pipe, I've never investigated how sharp the blade is, but it's obviously pretty sharp. It can take off wafer thin slices of the plastic pipe.
The blade is a little thicker than a typical mat cutter blade, maybe twice the thickness or so of an Exacto #11. I don't think it would be very difficult to sharpen more, if needed.
They are available at the big box home centers and any decent hardware store.
Isent the 120 longer then a 127?
Not too much longer. At least in my yashica 44, it fits well. It may not look like it, when you compare the spools, but the core of the 120 spool is much wider, so it just makes the wound film look a lot fatter. The core of the 127 spool is really skinny, which makes it a bit of a pain to wind the film on, but it is certainly doable.
Originally Posted by chamon88
but once you've done all this. just to be clear, assuming you don't change the backing paper, do you still wind it to #1 like normal...
a stupid question I know, but I'd rather find out if it's not so stupid now, rather than after I've tried it you know
Not sure what you mean by #w, but what I did is wind it first on to another 120 spool and then wind it onto the 127 spool. Sounds harder than it is, but you end up with everything okay. It might be possible to configure a bulk loader to wind it more easily, I'll check when I get time.
I strongly advise sacrificing one roll to do it with lights on, you can then see what needs to be done.
Hmm maybe I should cut some rolls and sell 'em ;)