Originally Posted by BrianL
One other thing to consider is the aiming. A general purpose light meter GENERALLY has an acceptance angle of 30 degrees. How the meter is oriented can introduce more or less sky, for instance, causing the readings to be variable. One needs to be aware of what is being measured.
You might try - http://www.jollinger.com/photo/meters/index.html - or it might be more than you really want to know. Selenium doesn't work well in low light as it generates electricity from the light.
Let's say the needle indicates LV=15.
Let's say you have a 100 ASA (ISO) film.
By rotating the dial, align the shutter speed you want to use with the mark of the ASA speed you are using.
For instance, align 125 (as in 1/125th of a second) with 100 ASA.
You will then immediately read, following the black, or white area, above the LV number indicated by the needle, the corresponding aperture for that ASA speed and that shutter speed, which should be f/16.
If you change the preferred shutter speed, e.g. 250, aligning it with 100 ASA, the corresponding aperture reading above LV 15 will be f/11. If you align 60 with 100 ASA, the f/value corresponding to the LV indicated by the needle (LV=15) will be f/22.
With practice you will soon find that the direct reading of LV is of more value than the explicit indication of a certain exposure "couple", and you will soon just read "LV=15" and in your mind you will know that, with 100 ISO, that means 125@f/16 = 250@f/8 = 500@f/5,6 etc.
If you look closely at the photo thre is no preset for the ASA as with battery operated meters or some other seleniums. Using the EV and setting it on the camera just duplicates the meter settings. If not metering for each frame and light conditions are consistent then setting the EV is okay but in my experience better just to meter each frame and transfer the readings. Ot seems easier and faster for me though my Rolleiflex T shutter is designed for using the EV system as the the primary method.