Bronica SQA medium format camera
150mm Bronica PS lens
My office/studio with afternoon north light, using the mirrored closet doors as sliding reflectors
A $5.00 scrap of upholstry liner material as backdrop
TRI-X exposed at E.I. 200
Originally Posted by c6h6o3
sometimes a secret is just knowing what you are doing,
when others don't.
unless it is a secret forumla ( like the metal in zildjian cymbals )
if there is a patent number on the packaging
you might be able to look up the formula .... ;)
Since I can't edit my original post, just wanted to add my experiments with flash - since none of my cameras support TTL-flash, I'm just using the cheapest flash I could find that supports tilt and swivel - an Adorama Ultiblitz (I don't think it's a rebranded brand-name - it's Vivitar 283-ish, but has a 2nd front-only facing smaller flash unit, which I rarely use, and just says "made in China" on it, which isn't terribly helpful).
As it has a non-standard-size head, none of the pre-made diffuser caps fit properly. I experimented with one of the Lumiquest 45-degree velcro-attached bounce units, but as the flash has a fairly high guide number and with bouncing it never triggers the thyristor settings, it seems to completely overpower average-sized rooms, even when stopped down (the BW400CN seems to handle all the light with detail retained, it just...looks funny...hard to describe).
Instead, I've been using a Lumiquest Mini-Softbox, which velcros to the front of the flash head. Now, with the flash head pointing forward at the subject, the thyristor function does kick in, and with the Mini-Softbox the light is softened as well. With 35mm, the flash is high enough that I can use it on-camera without much issue, but I frequently use a folding Stroboframe flip bracket so I can get the same flash orientation if I change the camera orientation.
With this setup, and if I'm close enough to the subject, I end up with a higher-key portrait than I would otherwise, but it usually works pretty well, especially for females and children.
I'd post an example, but as I mentioned earlier I'm not quite happy with my focussing results yet...
And, yes, I do prefer natural light, but I find myself taking a lot of these informal shots inside when it's already dark outside, so if I want to do this at all I have to figure out how to do it with flash :)
M/F Mamiya C330 F mostly with 135mm lens, or 180mm for tight head shots and either Fuji Pro 160S or 160C depending if it's a male or female portrait,For slides I use Fuji Astia or Provia, although I love Velvia for a lot of my outdoor landscape or street work I find it too strong in colour saturation for portraiture.
35 MM 85mm 1.8 Canon FD ( I love this lens so much I recently bought a second one in case the existing one breaks down) I also use the the FD 100mm 2.8 and the FD70-150 4.5 zoom. My film choice is the same as for M/F.
New features and top of the line cameras are great and all but the best results have consistlently came from a Yashica A, with Kodak Tri-X developed in d76. Rodenal was rad, but it is no more. The Yashica has a 80mm lens, at f/3.5. I love the simplicity of it, shutter speeds of only 25, 50, 100, and 300. If you cant get a good photo with this camera, its clearly the user, nothing can be blammed on the camera.
Alex_cave- Rodinal is too still available!
Camera, any 4X5.
Lens, 250mm Imagon or 300mm normal lens of almost any brand.
Film, Plus-X (I stocked up on 4X5)
Developer, Ansco Hyfinol. Hasen't been made since the 1950s but I have enough to do the last of my Plus-X.
Lighting. Window light with a white reflector.
equal time between a
nikkor 85/1.8 and 105/2.5 on a F2AS or F4
Minolta-M 90/4 on a ZM Zeiss r/f
all on b&w, of course.
Still haven't made up my mind which is my final choice.
Each has its own thing going:
the Minolta is ultra-sharp (careful!) and the r/f is just sooo portable,
the 105 is to die for in close crop face shots,
the 85 is just purrfect for half-body shots.
aw, stuff it: I'll just keep using them all!