Thank you everyone for your input, much appreciated!
I also noticed that it takes some practice using the Dexter. It gets better when I have to cut several mats in a row, but better don't ask how many times I screwed up... :confused: Oh well...
Luckily I found a shop who has the 350-1 model on sale at the moment, and I was also given a discount voucher by them, so in the end, the 350-1 cost just 11 Euros more than the 301, which I would have taken otherwise. Now I look forward to working with it - some prints are waiting to be framed :)
Thank you once again!
I purchased one *many* years ago - I love it!
As others have said - it sure beats a knife and a straight edge hands down.
Didn't realise they came with a DVD now - guess that actually shows how long I really have had it!!! :D
Nanette, there are some nice videos on youtube. Just look them up.
They make it look very easy - I hope it will be for me, too ;-) *just kidding*
I can't wait to cut my first mat with this thing! :) I have the feeling that cutting mats may become my new hobby - LOL!
Now why didn't I think of that????:whistling: Thanks for the heads up!!
Originally Posted by swittmann
Used a Dexter for several years and did quite well. Still use it to cut mat board down to size. Logan is much much nicer.
Straight corners -- start your cut by inserting the blade partially into the matboard an inch or so early while moving the cutter, then press down the rest of the way at your starting mark.
I found it was the initial pushing of the blade into the matboard that would deform the blade -- then as one starts the cut the blade would straighten out and give one a curved start. By starting the cut early while drawing the cutter forward keeps the blade from deforming. Works with 4 and 8 ply.
With 8-ply I found that using multiple passes (usually 3), working the blade deeper into the board each time works the easiest. I cut a lot of 8 ply.
PS -- I did not have money for beer in college, so I put signs up in the Art Department..."Will cut window mats for beer". An average job might cost a 4-pack of Guinness (no cheap American crap! This was before the micro-brews.) One while doing the job, the rest for later.
That is a great sounding suggestion. I never tried that. I do have my technique down with the dexter/logan combo and can make perfect cuts. But I have quite a lot of logan blades to use.
Originally Posted by Vaughn
Actually, back to the Dexter cutters, I once attended a framing workshop by a guy who was the curator of a major private print collection. He used a Dexter, but he said contrary to the normal instructions, he cuts from the front surface which allows seeing exactly where the visible cut is going. The only time this could be a problem is in the case of textured foil surfaces or the like, for which a strip of heavy paper or cardstock for the cutter to slide on can protect the surface. His major trick was that in starting the cut, you position the guide surface of the cutter body slightly away from the straightedge such that plunging the tip of the angled blade in snugs the guide surface right against the edge. If you put the cutter body directly against the straightedge and then push the blade in, it flexes and swerves outward as the cut starts, creating the curve. (The trick is to cut about 100 mats to learn what that distance needs to be!)
Now that I own a Logan, I go with that.
That is what I use to do with the Dexter also -- and what led me to my method with the Logan I wrote about above.
Originally Posted by DWThomas
Great thread with some excellent tips. Thanks!
Thank you once again for the precious tips!
Today, my cutter came and I already cut 3 mats. Wow, what difference! All 3 mats turned out perfectly, straight edges, perfect corners, beautiful bevels - fantastic! (read: this thing is fool proof :p - LOL!)
I really like that the cutting tools are lead by the guide rails, so the cuts turn out really straight.