I have been offline for several weeks due to a major computer failure and will now add my two cents worth.
1, the 110v 60hz USA tacking iron will NOT work on the european 220v 50 hz system, it will get extremely hot and fail totally within 20 seconds.
2, The uk system is 230 v but most of the rest of europe is 220v both use 50hz.
3, A soldering iron will not substitute for a tacking iron as the tip temerature on a soldering iron is around 140 / 170 degrees Celsius and mounting tissue melts at 80 to 90 degrees Celsius. (Americans will have to convert to Farenheight , or join the real world?)
4, using a soldering iron to tack the tissue to the back of a print will heat damage the emulsion of the print, I speak from bitter experience.
I bought a tacking iron from silverprint in the UK with a scepter tip. It is labeled as being 25 watts. The manufacturer Litesold and the instructions both refer to this "tacking iron" as a soldering iron. The manufacturers Homepage also shows this identical "tacking iron" and called it a soldering iron with a "melting tip" (sceptre tip). No way does it reach the temperature of a normal soldering iron (400°C) though.
Who knows. It is labled as 240V, I had to replace the UK plug with a German plug and it works like a charm.
Hi to you william
My estimate of the soldering iron temperature is based on the melting point of soft multi-core solder, if the iron is left on unused I can see that it may well reach 400deg "c".
I now use the wifes domestic iron for tacking the tissue to the back of the prints, both RC and FB. and it works fine.
I am thinking of buying her a new one for xmas!!! http://apug.org/forum/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif
I think a 220 converter should work well for any stuff made for American 110V current. There may be a problem with a tacking iron if the thermostat is electronic. Our Tacking Iron has a mechanical thermostat that should not be affected. Don't use a soldering iron! One tacking iron we looked at is actually a woodburning tool with a teflon tip on it. When I tested it, the tissue and the print melted and smoked! Beware - another supplier we all know and love is selling that tacking iron!
Fine Art Photo Supply now sells dry mount tissue and mount board - both will be on the website in a few days in an expanded workroom section of products. The mount board is high quality, and less than the stuff I used to buy at Light Impressions.
Our tissue is the same as everyone else's. At 170 degrees, one minute should give you a good bond. I pre-heat 2 pieces of mount board, and sandwich the print/tissue/board between them. Bend two opposite corners outward after removing the mounted print. If the print corners stay down tight, you're okay. I place the mounted print between two pieces of plate glass while it cools.
Prints fixed in hardening fixer are much more difficult to mount than those fixed in non-hardening fixers. Alkaline pH fixer is best of course...
thanks for the information.
Finally, I've got my darkroom and mounting room set up just the way I want it, from film loading to mounting, matting and framing. And of course everything is set up for the German 220V /50Hz. So I should be jumping for joy, right?! It should be hovering somewhere a top the list of things for which to be thankful on the Thanksgiving day, right??? So what do I go and do??? I sell my house and will be moving back to the land of 110V (yep, the USA) in the Spring.
Can you say "starting from scratch"???
further to my post in november regarding tacking irons, I was lucky to win last week on e-bay an Ademco 230v iron for £15.00 with a cetified mercury thermometer thrown in for good value.
I always keep a watch on the photo auctions and things I am looking for usually turn up.